Spending up to 200 dollars now on a bike for slow rides on gravel roads
I'm a dad with a kid just getting old enough that we can bike around together. I've been using a 10 dollar bike I got from a garage sale but it's just rusty junk at this point. Our other kid is still going to need to be in a back mounted seat for another year or two so I don't want to bother investing in a nice bike for me that is going to get busted up just from the mounting of the child seat.
So if I only have 200 dollars at most to put into a bike, what type of bike is least bad when it's cheap? I've picked up that the "full suspension" bikes are just horrible on the cheap bikes (and that's all that my Walmart seems to have), but what about the full body solid road type bikes? I'll be spending 95% of the time just piddling around on gravel roads and maybe light gravel trails. Nothing on mountains but also no need for real speed.
road-bike
New contributor
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show 4 more comments
I'm a dad with a kid just getting old enough that we can bike around together. I've been using a 10 dollar bike I got from a garage sale but it's just rusty junk at this point. Our other kid is still going to need to be in a back mounted seat for another year or two so I don't want to bother investing in a nice bike for me that is going to get busted up just from the mounting of the child seat.
So if I only have 200 dollars at most to put into a bike, what type of bike is least bad when it's cheap? I've picked up that the "full suspension" bikes are just horrible on the cheap bikes (and that's all that my Walmart seems to have), but what about the full body solid road type bikes? I'll be spending 95% of the time just piddling around on gravel roads and maybe light gravel trails. Nothing on mountains but also no need for real speed.
road-bike
New contributor
2
Yep, used. Shop some more garage sales, looking for a better quality bike.
– Daniel R Hicks
10 hours ago
1
Welcome on the site, and questions about cheaper bikes are great, don't worry.
– Nobody
9 hours ago
2
Two words; Police auctions
– Richard
6 hours ago
1
In Austin TX, there's (well, used to be; haven't lived there in half a decade) a great little bike shop on the east side owned by a former head of Yellow Bike Project (local nonprofit fixing up / giving away / training people to repair bikes) that, while a for-profit business, made it their primary purpose to cater to commuters needing cheap, reliable transportation; they both sold cheap bikes and would do repairs very inexpensively using used parts. I'm sure there are similar places elsewhere.
– Charles Duffy
3 hours ago
1
@CharlesDuffy Feel free to edit the YBP answer in bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1686/19705 to increase the depth of detail.
– Criggie♦
3 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
I'm a dad with a kid just getting old enough that we can bike around together. I've been using a 10 dollar bike I got from a garage sale but it's just rusty junk at this point. Our other kid is still going to need to be in a back mounted seat for another year or two so I don't want to bother investing in a nice bike for me that is going to get busted up just from the mounting of the child seat.
So if I only have 200 dollars at most to put into a bike, what type of bike is least bad when it's cheap? I've picked up that the "full suspension" bikes are just horrible on the cheap bikes (and that's all that my Walmart seems to have), but what about the full body solid road type bikes? I'll be spending 95% of the time just piddling around on gravel roads and maybe light gravel trails. Nothing on mountains but also no need for real speed.
road-bike
New contributor
I'm a dad with a kid just getting old enough that we can bike around together. I've been using a 10 dollar bike I got from a garage sale but it's just rusty junk at this point. Our other kid is still going to need to be in a back mounted seat for another year or two so I don't want to bother investing in a nice bike for me that is going to get busted up just from the mounting of the child seat.
So if I only have 200 dollars at most to put into a bike, what type of bike is least bad when it's cheap? I've picked up that the "full suspension" bikes are just horrible on the cheap bikes (and that's all that my Walmart seems to have), but what about the full body solid road type bikes? I'll be spending 95% of the time just piddling around on gravel roads and maybe light gravel trails. Nothing on mountains but also no need for real speed.
road-bike
road-bike
New contributor
New contributor
edited 58 mins ago
Community♦
1
1
New contributor
asked 15 hours ago
PetterJhon
613
613
New contributor
New contributor
2
Yep, used. Shop some more garage sales, looking for a better quality bike.
– Daniel R Hicks
10 hours ago
1
Welcome on the site, and questions about cheaper bikes are great, don't worry.
– Nobody
9 hours ago
2
Two words; Police auctions
– Richard
6 hours ago
1
In Austin TX, there's (well, used to be; haven't lived there in half a decade) a great little bike shop on the east side owned by a former head of Yellow Bike Project (local nonprofit fixing up / giving away / training people to repair bikes) that, while a for-profit business, made it their primary purpose to cater to commuters needing cheap, reliable transportation; they both sold cheap bikes and would do repairs very inexpensively using used parts. I'm sure there are similar places elsewhere.
– Charles Duffy
3 hours ago
1
@CharlesDuffy Feel free to edit the YBP answer in bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1686/19705 to increase the depth of detail.
– Criggie♦
3 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
2
Yep, used. Shop some more garage sales, looking for a better quality bike.
– Daniel R Hicks
10 hours ago
1
Welcome on the site, and questions about cheaper bikes are great, don't worry.
– Nobody
9 hours ago
2
Two words; Police auctions
– Richard
6 hours ago
1
In Austin TX, there's (well, used to be; haven't lived there in half a decade) a great little bike shop on the east side owned by a former head of Yellow Bike Project (local nonprofit fixing up / giving away / training people to repair bikes) that, while a for-profit business, made it their primary purpose to cater to commuters needing cheap, reliable transportation; they both sold cheap bikes and would do repairs very inexpensively using used parts. I'm sure there are similar places elsewhere.
– Charles Duffy
3 hours ago
1
@CharlesDuffy Feel free to edit the YBP answer in bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1686/19705 to increase the depth of detail.
– Criggie♦
3 hours ago
2
2
Yep, used. Shop some more garage sales, looking for a better quality bike.
– Daniel R Hicks
10 hours ago
Yep, used. Shop some more garage sales, looking for a better quality bike.
– Daniel R Hicks
10 hours ago
1
1
Welcome on the site, and questions about cheaper bikes are great, don't worry.
– Nobody
9 hours ago
Welcome on the site, and questions about cheaper bikes are great, don't worry.
– Nobody
9 hours ago
2
2
Two words; Police auctions
– Richard
6 hours ago
Two words; Police auctions
– Richard
6 hours ago
1
1
In Austin TX, there's (well, used to be; haven't lived there in half a decade) a great little bike shop on the east side owned by a former head of Yellow Bike Project (local nonprofit fixing up / giving away / training people to repair bikes) that, while a for-profit business, made it their primary purpose to cater to commuters needing cheap, reliable transportation; they both sold cheap bikes and would do repairs very inexpensively using used parts. I'm sure there are similar places elsewhere.
– Charles Duffy
3 hours ago
In Austin TX, there's (well, used to be; haven't lived there in half a decade) a great little bike shop on the east side owned by a former head of Yellow Bike Project (local nonprofit fixing up / giving away / training people to repair bikes) that, while a for-profit business, made it their primary purpose to cater to commuters needing cheap, reliable transportation; they both sold cheap bikes and would do repairs very inexpensively using used parts. I'm sure there are similar places elsewhere.
– Charles Duffy
3 hours ago
1
1
@CharlesDuffy Feel free to edit the YBP answer in bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1686/19705 to increase the depth of detail.
– Criggie♦
3 hours ago
@CharlesDuffy Feel free to edit the YBP answer in bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1686/19705 to increase the depth of detail.
– Criggie♦
3 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
5 Answers
5
active
oldest
votes
I'd recommend another used bike. It might take some time to find a suitable one that fits your budget, but garage sales, thrift stores, and maybe even Craig's list are good places to find good used bikes that would fit in your budget.
A couple of recommendations:
- Don't buy a bike without seeing it.
- Bring a set of decent tools to do a good inspection (Don't use cheap tools on someone else's bike...)
- Loosen and remove the seat post, look inside for bad rust/corrosion
- Do ALL the parts that are supposed to rotate/move smoothly? (A rusty chain is no big deal - it can be replaced, but count that in your budget)
- See if you can loosen the pedals from the crankset
- Remove and replace the wheels - you're going to have to replace tires and tubes eventually...
- Check cables and brake pads (no big deal, they might well need to be replaced, but count that in your budget)
- Loosen the handlebars and headset
Obviously, you'll have to be able to return the bike to its original condition.
If you can't do any of that without damaging the bike, it's not a good bike to buy. For example, if you can't get the seat post, pedals, or headset loose, there's probably way too much corrosion or rust.
If the seller doesn't want you to check out the bike like that, don't buy it.
5
I'm not sure that wrenching on every nut-like thing on the bike is really needed (though checking that seat can be adjusted is probably a good idea and is often possible without tools). Mainly you're looking for bad bearings and bad corrosion.
– Daniel R Hicks
10 hours ago
1
It's easy to spin/wiggle the wheels, yank on the crank, set the front brake and wobble the bike back and forth (to check the headset).
– Daniel R Hicks
9 hours ago
1
I think this would benefit from some more differentiation. It's fine if the handlebars and heatset are rusted on if the bike is correspondingly cheap and still structurally ok.
– Nobody
9 hours ago
2
This is why I don't recommend that people who are new to riding get a used bike, unless their local bike shop has a good reputation for selling good used bikes. New riders often lack the knowledge to determine if a used bike is in good condition and if they are getting their money's worth.
– Kibbee
9 hours ago
1
@Kibbee All true. But given the constraints in the question, and given the questioner seems to want to learn, I thought it was worth putting out what I'd look for. Everyone has to start somewhere.
– Andrew Henle
9 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
Used bikes is definitely the area to go, but I think depending on how much of a bicycle mechanic you are the process needs some more differentiation than the existing answer.
So:
- Inspect before buying, unless it's next to free. This includes a test ride.
- Make sure every part you can service yourself is actually serviceable. Or alternatively, consider that you will only use the bike until the first part that you can't service breaks. That is
- Make sure you can adjust the saddle to your height (that's a must). Keep in mind it must overlap with the frame enough (like finger-length) otherwise it might break off.
- Make sure you can adjust the handlebar how you want it (if needed and possible, otherwise the bike is not for you)
- Make sure you are comfortable on the bike
- Make sure the lights and reflectors work as required by the law and your personal safety or you can replace what is broken.
- Make sure all gears work fine (that's probably not something you'll replace yourself as an amateur). That means you use each gear during the test ride and try to put a lot of weight on the pedals (if the chain and gears are worn it might skip under load and a new set of gears and a chain is rather expensive).
- Make sure the wheels are round, i.e. don't wobble side to side or up and down
- Make sure the wheels don't scrape anywhere. The brakes shouldn't touch the wheel if not engaged.
- Make sure the brakes work well. You should really learn to spot worn pads and replace them yourself.
- If the tires are too worn or old consider that you will need to replace them soon
- If you can change a tire (I hope so :) ) make sure the wheels can be removed from the frame.
- If you can and want to replace pedals if the bearings go bad, make sure the pedals can be loosened from the cranks.
- etc. depending on your own knowledge
You don't need to be able to do much maintenance work, but if you can't, then even a $200 bike is probably too expensive to be money-efficient.
2
Try to take along a friend who has some knowledge of bikes. 4 eyes see better than two.
– Carel
4 hours ago
add a comment |
Second-hand.
My $800 (adult) bike, a "hybrid" (a Kona "Dr. Dew") is 7 years old. I think I saw its current value (now being old) estimated at $230, though I don't remember where. I'd rather have it than a new cheap bike -- nice gear-change, great brakes, solid easy-turning wheels (and great tires).
They say, I don't know, that better components need less maintenance.
On this I change the chain (and sometimes the cassette) and brake pads twice a year or so (e.g. every 5000 km); and changed the bottom bracket once after about 25,000 km when the pedals started to wobble slightly; and change the tires once every 5 years or so; and lube the chain, and that's all the maintenance it requires.
I get the impression that there are, approximately, three kinds of bike:
- $150 from the department store
- $550+ from the bike store
- $1500..15000 racing bikes
I'm thinking a second-hand version of category #2 could be better than a new #1.
Replacing all the replaceables though -- new tires, new brake pads, new chain and cassette -- might cost a good fraction of $100.
Edit to add: if you're "on gravel roads and maybe light gravel trails" then you might want good tires, puncture-resistant tires, maybe touring (long distance) tires.
The tread doesn't matter, and a thick/heavy tread (knobbly tires) just makes it slower (because your pedalling effort goes towards deforming the tires as it rolls), maybe they're for mud or something I don't know, what matters to me is the resistance to little chips of stone.
I ride a gravel cycle path all the time and the tires are among the best components on my bike -- I bought them specially, they didn't come with the bike. Someone with a road bike and lighter tires maybe wouldn't ride that path.
A wider wheel, like 32 rather than the 23 you'd find on a racing bike, might be more suitable for that too.
2
nod. My ex-brother-in-law used to do bike builds for a department store, and they got a lot of parts that were just wrong -- threaded backwards or such. He rescued enough such components from the trash to build a bike for himself -- but anyone who didn't know its quirks wouldn't get a block without it falling apart; and if the builds were done by someone other than him, some of those parts might have made it onto customer bikes. Gotta agree with the "second-hand #2" recommendation.
– Charles Duffy
3 hours ago
A wider wheel, like 32 rather than the 23 you'd find on a racing bike, might be more suitable for that too. Absolutely true. Don't take a 23 tire on gravel. If you're lucky you'll just rattle all the fillings out of your teeth. If you're unlucky you'll tear the sidewall on a nasty rock. Tire clearance on used road frame should be something looked at - avoid a racing frame that can't even handle 28s, much less 32s.
– Andrew Henle
1 hour ago
add a comment |
Adding to Criggie's answer on buying used.
Craiglist seems to be a good source for used basic bikes where I live. Facebook groups and forums tend to be a bit more specialized and deal in higher end bikes and components. I'd try to get a bike that is a couple of years old and has not seen too much use. A reasonable seller should be able to tell you the year they bought it.
I'd get familiar with the hierarchy of Shimano drivetrain and brake component group-sets so you have some idea of the quality of bikes you are looking at. Most hybrid bikes come with MTB groups. The levels you are likely to encounter are, in order of decreasing quality: Deore, Alivio, Acera, Altus, Tourney.
Higher groupsets shift and brake better, and are more robust. For the riding you want to do anything above Tourney should be fine. You'll often see bikes with a mix of two levels.
Many hybrids have front suspension. At the price point you are looking at suspension forks just add weight, but you may find that finding a suitable used bike without them is hard just because they are so ubiquitous. If you can live with the weight it's OK, and I'd certainly pick a bike in great condition with suspension forks over one in a poorer condition without. Avoid cheap full suspension bikes at all cost.
add a comment |
You can get a perfectly good bike at Walmart for $89.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Roadmaster-Granite-Peak-Men-s-Mountain-Bike-Black/55376950
Get the 3 year warranty for $11. If something breaks in 3 years, Walmart will give you another new bike. If not, you can sell it for $10 at a tag sale.
This particular bike has front springs, but you will never notice they are there unless you jump off a ramp.
Please don't listen to the bike snobs. They are a cancer on cheap transportation.
Edit: You will notice that the bike snobs that infest the Internet are downvoting my answer. They can't explain why Walmart sells millions of affordable bicycles to people like me every year. It's because they are a good choice for the price, and I speak as someone who bikes to work every day - and NOT in Spandex!
New contributor
2
Any bike beats walking but a cheap BSO earns its well-deserved derision from bike mechanics for the poor build quality, not from the lycra bike snobs who really don't care.
– Criggie♦
3 hours ago
1
I commuted on a cheap bike for years, on a commute that was about 6 km each way. I wanted and bought a better bike later, when my commute increase to 18 km each way. I don't know if you've tried a better bike, it's surprising how much better it can be.
– ChrisW
1 hour ago
I didn't downvote (yet...), but you're the one being an arrogant snob by completely and pejoratively dismissing opinions that differ from your's. Component quality does matter. Next you're going to say a Honda, Toyota, or Mercedes doesn't last longer than a Yugo? Let's put it this way: tell us what you think of your Walmart bike after you put 300-400 miles on it. In a single week. Or 2,000 miles on it. In a single month. Until you've done that - you don't know what you're talking about.
– Andrew Henle
1 hour ago
Part of the reason why Walmart sells millions of bikes is that any repair would be more expensive than new bike, and those bikes break a lot.
– ojs
1 hour ago
add a comment |
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5 Answers
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5 Answers
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I'd recommend another used bike. It might take some time to find a suitable one that fits your budget, but garage sales, thrift stores, and maybe even Craig's list are good places to find good used bikes that would fit in your budget.
A couple of recommendations:
- Don't buy a bike without seeing it.
- Bring a set of decent tools to do a good inspection (Don't use cheap tools on someone else's bike...)
- Loosen and remove the seat post, look inside for bad rust/corrosion
- Do ALL the parts that are supposed to rotate/move smoothly? (A rusty chain is no big deal - it can be replaced, but count that in your budget)
- See if you can loosen the pedals from the crankset
- Remove and replace the wheels - you're going to have to replace tires and tubes eventually...
- Check cables and brake pads (no big deal, they might well need to be replaced, but count that in your budget)
- Loosen the handlebars and headset
Obviously, you'll have to be able to return the bike to its original condition.
If you can't do any of that without damaging the bike, it's not a good bike to buy. For example, if you can't get the seat post, pedals, or headset loose, there's probably way too much corrosion or rust.
If the seller doesn't want you to check out the bike like that, don't buy it.
5
I'm not sure that wrenching on every nut-like thing on the bike is really needed (though checking that seat can be adjusted is probably a good idea and is often possible without tools). Mainly you're looking for bad bearings and bad corrosion.
– Daniel R Hicks
10 hours ago
1
It's easy to spin/wiggle the wheels, yank on the crank, set the front brake and wobble the bike back and forth (to check the headset).
– Daniel R Hicks
9 hours ago
1
I think this would benefit from some more differentiation. It's fine if the handlebars and heatset are rusted on if the bike is correspondingly cheap and still structurally ok.
– Nobody
9 hours ago
2
This is why I don't recommend that people who are new to riding get a used bike, unless their local bike shop has a good reputation for selling good used bikes. New riders often lack the knowledge to determine if a used bike is in good condition and if they are getting their money's worth.
– Kibbee
9 hours ago
1
@Kibbee All true. But given the constraints in the question, and given the questioner seems to want to learn, I thought it was worth putting out what I'd look for. Everyone has to start somewhere.
– Andrew Henle
9 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
I'd recommend another used bike. It might take some time to find a suitable one that fits your budget, but garage sales, thrift stores, and maybe even Craig's list are good places to find good used bikes that would fit in your budget.
A couple of recommendations:
- Don't buy a bike without seeing it.
- Bring a set of decent tools to do a good inspection (Don't use cheap tools on someone else's bike...)
- Loosen and remove the seat post, look inside for bad rust/corrosion
- Do ALL the parts that are supposed to rotate/move smoothly? (A rusty chain is no big deal - it can be replaced, but count that in your budget)
- See if you can loosen the pedals from the crankset
- Remove and replace the wheels - you're going to have to replace tires and tubes eventually...
- Check cables and brake pads (no big deal, they might well need to be replaced, but count that in your budget)
- Loosen the handlebars and headset
Obviously, you'll have to be able to return the bike to its original condition.
If you can't do any of that without damaging the bike, it's not a good bike to buy. For example, if you can't get the seat post, pedals, or headset loose, there's probably way too much corrosion or rust.
If the seller doesn't want you to check out the bike like that, don't buy it.
5
I'm not sure that wrenching on every nut-like thing on the bike is really needed (though checking that seat can be adjusted is probably a good idea and is often possible without tools). Mainly you're looking for bad bearings and bad corrosion.
– Daniel R Hicks
10 hours ago
1
It's easy to spin/wiggle the wheels, yank on the crank, set the front brake and wobble the bike back and forth (to check the headset).
– Daniel R Hicks
9 hours ago
1
I think this would benefit from some more differentiation. It's fine if the handlebars and heatset are rusted on if the bike is correspondingly cheap and still structurally ok.
– Nobody
9 hours ago
2
This is why I don't recommend that people who are new to riding get a used bike, unless their local bike shop has a good reputation for selling good used bikes. New riders often lack the knowledge to determine if a used bike is in good condition and if they are getting their money's worth.
– Kibbee
9 hours ago
1
@Kibbee All true. But given the constraints in the question, and given the questioner seems to want to learn, I thought it was worth putting out what I'd look for. Everyone has to start somewhere.
– Andrew Henle
9 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
I'd recommend another used bike. It might take some time to find a suitable one that fits your budget, but garage sales, thrift stores, and maybe even Craig's list are good places to find good used bikes that would fit in your budget.
A couple of recommendations:
- Don't buy a bike without seeing it.
- Bring a set of decent tools to do a good inspection (Don't use cheap tools on someone else's bike...)
- Loosen and remove the seat post, look inside for bad rust/corrosion
- Do ALL the parts that are supposed to rotate/move smoothly? (A rusty chain is no big deal - it can be replaced, but count that in your budget)
- See if you can loosen the pedals from the crankset
- Remove and replace the wheels - you're going to have to replace tires and tubes eventually...
- Check cables and brake pads (no big deal, they might well need to be replaced, but count that in your budget)
- Loosen the handlebars and headset
Obviously, you'll have to be able to return the bike to its original condition.
If you can't do any of that without damaging the bike, it's not a good bike to buy. For example, if you can't get the seat post, pedals, or headset loose, there's probably way too much corrosion or rust.
If the seller doesn't want you to check out the bike like that, don't buy it.
I'd recommend another used bike. It might take some time to find a suitable one that fits your budget, but garage sales, thrift stores, and maybe even Craig's list are good places to find good used bikes that would fit in your budget.
A couple of recommendations:
- Don't buy a bike without seeing it.
- Bring a set of decent tools to do a good inspection (Don't use cheap tools on someone else's bike...)
- Loosen and remove the seat post, look inside for bad rust/corrosion
- Do ALL the parts that are supposed to rotate/move smoothly? (A rusty chain is no big deal - it can be replaced, but count that in your budget)
- See if you can loosen the pedals from the crankset
- Remove and replace the wheels - you're going to have to replace tires and tubes eventually...
- Check cables and brake pads (no big deal, they might well need to be replaced, but count that in your budget)
- Loosen the handlebars and headset
Obviously, you'll have to be able to return the bike to its original condition.
If you can't do any of that without damaging the bike, it's not a good bike to buy. For example, if you can't get the seat post, pedals, or headset loose, there's probably way too much corrosion or rust.
If the seller doesn't want you to check out the bike like that, don't buy it.
answered 12 hours ago
Andrew Henle
1,08148
1,08148
5
I'm not sure that wrenching on every nut-like thing on the bike is really needed (though checking that seat can be adjusted is probably a good idea and is often possible without tools). Mainly you're looking for bad bearings and bad corrosion.
– Daniel R Hicks
10 hours ago
1
It's easy to spin/wiggle the wheels, yank on the crank, set the front brake and wobble the bike back and forth (to check the headset).
– Daniel R Hicks
9 hours ago
1
I think this would benefit from some more differentiation. It's fine if the handlebars and heatset are rusted on if the bike is correspondingly cheap and still structurally ok.
– Nobody
9 hours ago
2
This is why I don't recommend that people who are new to riding get a used bike, unless their local bike shop has a good reputation for selling good used bikes. New riders often lack the knowledge to determine if a used bike is in good condition and if they are getting their money's worth.
– Kibbee
9 hours ago
1
@Kibbee All true. But given the constraints in the question, and given the questioner seems to want to learn, I thought it was worth putting out what I'd look for. Everyone has to start somewhere.
– Andrew Henle
9 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
5
I'm not sure that wrenching on every nut-like thing on the bike is really needed (though checking that seat can be adjusted is probably a good idea and is often possible without tools). Mainly you're looking for bad bearings and bad corrosion.
– Daniel R Hicks
10 hours ago
1
It's easy to spin/wiggle the wheels, yank on the crank, set the front brake and wobble the bike back and forth (to check the headset).
– Daniel R Hicks
9 hours ago
1
I think this would benefit from some more differentiation. It's fine if the handlebars and heatset are rusted on if the bike is correspondingly cheap and still structurally ok.
– Nobody
9 hours ago
2
This is why I don't recommend that people who are new to riding get a used bike, unless their local bike shop has a good reputation for selling good used bikes. New riders often lack the knowledge to determine if a used bike is in good condition and if they are getting their money's worth.
– Kibbee
9 hours ago
1
@Kibbee All true. But given the constraints in the question, and given the questioner seems to want to learn, I thought it was worth putting out what I'd look for. Everyone has to start somewhere.
– Andrew Henle
9 hours ago
5
5
I'm not sure that wrenching on every nut-like thing on the bike is really needed (though checking that seat can be adjusted is probably a good idea and is often possible without tools). Mainly you're looking for bad bearings and bad corrosion.
– Daniel R Hicks
10 hours ago
I'm not sure that wrenching on every nut-like thing on the bike is really needed (though checking that seat can be adjusted is probably a good idea and is often possible without tools). Mainly you're looking for bad bearings and bad corrosion.
– Daniel R Hicks
10 hours ago
1
1
It's easy to spin/wiggle the wheels, yank on the crank, set the front brake and wobble the bike back and forth (to check the headset).
– Daniel R Hicks
9 hours ago
It's easy to spin/wiggle the wheels, yank on the crank, set the front brake and wobble the bike back and forth (to check the headset).
– Daniel R Hicks
9 hours ago
1
1
I think this would benefit from some more differentiation. It's fine if the handlebars and heatset are rusted on if the bike is correspondingly cheap and still structurally ok.
– Nobody
9 hours ago
I think this would benefit from some more differentiation. It's fine if the handlebars and heatset are rusted on if the bike is correspondingly cheap and still structurally ok.
– Nobody
9 hours ago
2
2
This is why I don't recommend that people who are new to riding get a used bike, unless their local bike shop has a good reputation for selling good used bikes. New riders often lack the knowledge to determine if a used bike is in good condition and if they are getting their money's worth.
– Kibbee
9 hours ago
This is why I don't recommend that people who are new to riding get a used bike, unless their local bike shop has a good reputation for selling good used bikes. New riders often lack the knowledge to determine if a used bike is in good condition and if they are getting their money's worth.
– Kibbee
9 hours ago
1
1
@Kibbee All true. But given the constraints in the question, and given the questioner seems to want to learn, I thought it was worth putting out what I'd look for. Everyone has to start somewhere.
– Andrew Henle
9 hours ago
@Kibbee All true. But given the constraints in the question, and given the questioner seems to want to learn, I thought it was worth putting out what I'd look for. Everyone has to start somewhere.
– Andrew Henle
9 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
Used bikes is definitely the area to go, but I think depending on how much of a bicycle mechanic you are the process needs some more differentiation than the existing answer.
So:
- Inspect before buying, unless it's next to free. This includes a test ride.
- Make sure every part you can service yourself is actually serviceable. Or alternatively, consider that you will only use the bike until the first part that you can't service breaks. That is
- Make sure you can adjust the saddle to your height (that's a must). Keep in mind it must overlap with the frame enough (like finger-length) otherwise it might break off.
- Make sure you can adjust the handlebar how you want it (if needed and possible, otherwise the bike is not for you)
- Make sure you are comfortable on the bike
- Make sure the lights and reflectors work as required by the law and your personal safety or you can replace what is broken.
- Make sure all gears work fine (that's probably not something you'll replace yourself as an amateur). That means you use each gear during the test ride and try to put a lot of weight on the pedals (if the chain and gears are worn it might skip under load and a new set of gears and a chain is rather expensive).
- Make sure the wheels are round, i.e. don't wobble side to side or up and down
- Make sure the wheels don't scrape anywhere. The brakes shouldn't touch the wheel if not engaged.
- Make sure the brakes work well. You should really learn to spot worn pads and replace them yourself.
- If the tires are too worn or old consider that you will need to replace them soon
- If you can change a tire (I hope so :) ) make sure the wheels can be removed from the frame.
- If you can and want to replace pedals if the bearings go bad, make sure the pedals can be loosened from the cranks.
- etc. depending on your own knowledge
You don't need to be able to do much maintenance work, but if you can't, then even a $200 bike is probably too expensive to be money-efficient.
2
Try to take along a friend who has some knowledge of bikes. 4 eyes see better than two.
– Carel
4 hours ago
add a comment |
Used bikes is definitely the area to go, but I think depending on how much of a bicycle mechanic you are the process needs some more differentiation than the existing answer.
So:
- Inspect before buying, unless it's next to free. This includes a test ride.
- Make sure every part you can service yourself is actually serviceable. Or alternatively, consider that you will only use the bike until the first part that you can't service breaks. That is
- Make sure you can adjust the saddle to your height (that's a must). Keep in mind it must overlap with the frame enough (like finger-length) otherwise it might break off.
- Make sure you can adjust the handlebar how you want it (if needed and possible, otherwise the bike is not for you)
- Make sure you are comfortable on the bike
- Make sure the lights and reflectors work as required by the law and your personal safety or you can replace what is broken.
- Make sure all gears work fine (that's probably not something you'll replace yourself as an amateur). That means you use each gear during the test ride and try to put a lot of weight on the pedals (if the chain and gears are worn it might skip under load and a new set of gears and a chain is rather expensive).
- Make sure the wheels are round, i.e. don't wobble side to side or up and down
- Make sure the wheels don't scrape anywhere. The brakes shouldn't touch the wheel if not engaged.
- Make sure the brakes work well. You should really learn to spot worn pads and replace them yourself.
- If the tires are too worn or old consider that you will need to replace them soon
- If you can change a tire (I hope so :) ) make sure the wheels can be removed from the frame.
- If you can and want to replace pedals if the bearings go bad, make sure the pedals can be loosened from the cranks.
- etc. depending on your own knowledge
You don't need to be able to do much maintenance work, but if you can't, then even a $200 bike is probably too expensive to be money-efficient.
2
Try to take along a friend who has some knowledge of bikes. 4 eyes see better than two.
– Carel
4 hours ago
add a comment |
Used bikes is definitely the area to go, but I think depending on how much of a bicycle mechanic you are the process needs some more differentiation than the existing answer.
So:
- Inspect before buying, unless it's next to free. This includes a test ride.
- Make sure every part you can service yourself is actually serviceable. Or alternatively, consider that you will only use the bike until the first part that you can't service breaks. That is
- Make sure you can adjust the saddle to your height (that's a must). Keep in mind it must overlap with the frame enough (like finger-length) otherwise it might break off.
- Make sure you can adjust the handlebar how you want it (if needed and possible, otherwise the bike is not for you)
- Make sure you are comfortable on the bike
- Make sure the lights and reflectors work as required by the law and your personal safety or you can replace what is broken.
- Make sure all gears work fine (that's probably not something you'll replace yourself as an amateur). That means you use each gear during the test ride and try to put a lot of weight on the pedals (if the chain and gears are worn it might skip under load and a new set of gears and a chain is rather expensive).
- Make sure the wheels are round, i.e. don't wobble side to side or up and down
- Make sure the wheels don't scrape anywhere. The brakes shouldn't touch the wheel if not engaged.
- Make sure the brakes work well. You should really learn to spot worn pads and replace them yourself.
- If the tires are too worn or old consider that you will need to replace them soon
- If you can change a tire (I hope so :) ) make sure the wheels can be removed from the frame.
- If you can and want to replace pedals if the bearings go bad, make sure the pedals can be loosened from the cranks.
- etc. depending on your own knowledge
You don't need to be able to do much maintenance work, but if you can't, then even a $200 bike is probably too expensive to be money-efficient.
Used bikes is definitely the area to go, but I think depending on how much of a bicycle mechanic you are the process needs some more differentiation than the existing answer.
So:
- Inspect before buying, unless it's next to free. This includes a test ride.
- Make sure every part you can service yourself is actually serviceable. Or alternatively, consider that you will only use the bike until the first part that you can't service breaks. That is
- Make sure you can adjust the saddle to your height (that's a must). Keep in mind it must overlap with the frame enough (like finger-length) otherwise it might break off.
- Make sure you can adjust the handlebar how you want it (if needed and possible, otherwise the bike is not for you)
- Make sure you are comfortable on the bike
- Make sure the lights and reflectors work as required by the law and your personal safety or you can replace what is broken.
- Make sure all gears work fine (that's probably not something you'll replace yourself as an amateur). That means you use each gear during the test ride and try to put a lot of weight on the pedals (if the chain and gears are worn it might skip under load and a new set of gears and a chain is rather expensive).
- Make sure the wheels are round, i.e. don't wobble side to side or up and down
- Make sure the wheels don't scrape anywhere. The brakes shouldn't touch the wheel if not engaged.
- Make sure the brakes work well. You should really learn to spot worn pads and replace them yourself.
- If the tires are too worn or old consider that you will need to replace them soon
- If you can change a tire (I hope so :) ) make sure the wheels can be removed from the frame.
- If you can and want to replace pedals if the bearings go bad, make sure the pedals can be loosened from the cranks.
- etc. depending on your own knowledge
You don't need to be able to do much maintenance work, but if you can't, then even a $200 bike is probably too expensive to be money-efficient.
edited 9 hours ago
answered 9 hours ago
Nobody
815621
815621
2
Try to take along a friend who has some knowledge of bikes. 4 eyes see better than two.
– Carel
4 hours ago
add a comment |
2
Try to take along a friend who has some knowledge of bikes. 4 eyes see better than two.
– Carel
4 hours ago
2
2
Try to take along a friend who has some knowledge of bikes. 4 eyes see better than two.
– Carel
4 hours ago
Try to take along a friend who has some knowledge of bikes. 4 eyes see better than two.
– Carel
4 hours ago
add a comment |
Second-hand.
My $800 (adult) bike, a "hybrid" (a Kona "Dr. Dew") is 7 years old. I think I saw its current value (now being old) estimated at $230, though I don't remember where. I'd rather have it than a new cheap bike -- nice gear-change, great brakes, solid easy-turning wheels (and great tires).
They say, I don't know, that better components need less maintenance.
On this I change the chain (and sometimes the cassette) and brake pads twice a year or so (e.g. every 5000 km); and changed the bottom bracket once after about 25,000 km when the pedals started to wobble slightly; and change the tires once every 5 years or so; and lube the chain, and that's all the maintenance it requires.
I get the impression that there are, approximately, three kinds of bike:
- $150 from the department store
- $550+ from the bike store
- $1500..15000 racing bikes
I'm thinking a second-hand version of category #2 could be better than a new #1.
Replacing all the replaceables though -- new tires, new brake pads, new chain and cassette -- might cost a good fraction of $100.
Edit to add: if you're "on gravel roads and maybe light gravel trails" then you might want good tires, puncture-resistant tires, maybe touring (long distance) tires.
The tread doesn't matter, and a thick/heavy tread (knobbly tires) just makes it slower (because your pedalling effort goes towards deforming the tires as it rolls), maybe they're for mud or something I don't know, what matters to me is the resistance to little chips of stone.
I ride a gravel cycle path all the time and the tires are among the best components on my bike -- I bought them specially, they didn't come with the bike. Someone with a road bike and lighter tires maybe wouldn't ride that path.
A wider wheel, like 32 rather than the 23 you'd find on a racing bike, might be more suitable for that too.
2
nod. My ex-brother-in-law used to do bike builds for a department store, and they got a lot of parts that were just wrong -- threaded backwards or such. He rescued enough such components from the trash to build a bike for himself -- but anyone who didn't know its quirks wouldn't get a block without it falling apart; and if the builds were done by someone other than him, some of those parts might have made it onto customer bikes. Gotta agree with the "second-hand #2" recommendation.
– Charles Duffy
3 hours ago
A wider wheel, like 32 rather than the 23 you'd find on a racing bike, might be more suitable for that too. Absolutely true. Don't take a 23 tire on gravel. If you're lucky you'll just rattle all the fillings out of your teeth. If you're unlucky you'll tear the sidewall on a nasty rock. Tire clearance on used road frame should be something looked at - avoid a racing frame that can't even handle 28s, much less 32s.
– Andrew Henle
1 hour ago
add a comment |
Second-hand.
My $800 (adult) bike, a "hybrid" (a Kona "Dr. Dew") is 7 years old. I think I saw its current value (now being old) estimated at $230, though I don't remember where. I'd rather have it than a new cheap bike -- nice gear-change, great brakes, solid easy-turning wheels (and great tires).
They say, I don't know, that better components need less maintenance.
On this I change the chain (and sometimes the cassette) and brake pads twice a year or so (e.g. every 5000 km); and changed the bottom bracket once after about 25,000 km when the pedals started to wobble slightly; and change the tires once every 5 years or so; and lube the chain, and that's all the maintenance it requires.
I get the impression that there are, approximately, three kinds of bike:
- $150 from the department store
- $550+ from the bike store
- $1500..15000 racing bikes
I'm thinking a second-hand version of category #2 could be better than a new #1.
Replacing all the replaceables though -- new tires, new brake pads, new chain and cassette -- might cost a good fraction of $100.
Edit to add: if you're "on gravel roads and maybe light gravel trails" then you might want good tires, puncture-resistant tires, maybe touring (long distance) tires.
The tread doesn't matter, and a thick/heavy tread (knobbly tires) just makes it slower (because your pedalling effort goes towards deforming the tires as it rolls), maybe they're for mud or something I don't know, what matters to me is the resistance to little chips of stone.
I ride a gravel cycle path all the time and the tires are among the best components on my bike -- I bought them specially, they didn't come with the bike. Someone with a road bike and lighter tires maybe wouldn't ride that path.
A wider wheel, like 32 rather than the 23 you'd find on a racing bike, might be more suitable for that too.
2
nod. My ex-brother-in-law used to do bike builds for a department store, and they got a lot of parts that were just wrong -- threaded backwards or such. He rescued enough such components from the trash to build a bike for himself -- but anyone who didn't know its quirks wouldn't get a block without it falling apart; and if the builds were done by someone other than him, some of those parts might have made it onto customer bikes. Gotta agree with the "second-hand #2" recommendation.
– Charles Duffy
3 hours ago
A wider wheel, like 32 rather than the 23 you'd find on a racing bike, might be more suitable for that too. Absolutely true. Don't take a 23 tire on gravel. If you're lucky you'll just rattle all the fillings out of your teeth. If you're unlucky you'll tear the sidewall on a nasty rock. Tire clearance on used road frame should be something looked at - avoid a racing frame that can't even handle 28s, much less 32s.
– Andrew Henle
1 hour ago
add a comment |
Second-hand.
My $800 (adult) bike, a "hybrid" (a Kona "Dr. Dew") is 7 years old. I think I saw its current value (now being old) estimated at $230, though I don't remember where. I'd rather have it than a new cheap bike -- nice gear-change, great brakes, solid easy-turning wheels (and great tires).
They say, I don't know, that better components need less maintenance.
On this I change the chain (and sometimes the cassette) and brake pads twice a year or so (e.g. every 5000 km); and changed the bottom bracket once after about 25,000 km when the pedals started to wobble slightly; and change the tires once every 5 years or so; and lube the chain, and that's all the maintenance it requires.
I get the impression that there are, approximately, three kinds of bike:
- $150 from the department store
- $550+ from the bike store
- $1500..15000 racing bikes
I'm thinking a second-hand version of category #2 could be better than a new #1.
Replacing all the replaceables though -- new tires, new brake pads, new chain and cassette -- might cost a good fraction of $100.
Edit to add: if you're "on gravel roads and maybe light gravel trails" then you might want good tires, puncture-resistant tires, maybe touring (long distance) tires.
The tread doesn't matter, and a thick/heavy tread (knobbly tires) just makes it slower (because your pedalling effort goes towards deforming the tires as it rolls), maybe they're for mud or something I don't know, what matters to me is the resistance to little chips of stone.
I ride a gravel cycle path all the time and the tires are among the best components on my bike -- I bought them specially, they didn't come with the bike. Someone with a road bike and lighter tires maybe wouldn't ride that path.
A wider wheel, like 32 rather than the 23 you'd find on a racing bike, might be more suitable for that too.
Second-hand.
My $800 (adult) bike, a "hybrid" (a Kona "Dr. Dew") is 7 years old. I think I saw its current value (now being old) estimated at $230, though I don't remember where. I'd rather have it than a new cheap bike -- nice gear-change, great brakes, solid easy-turning wheels (and great tires).
They say, I don't know, that better components need less maintenance.
On this I change the chain (and sometimes the cassette) and brake pads twice a year or so (e.g. every 5000 km); and changed the bottom bracket once after about 25,000 km when the pedals started to wobble slightly; and change the tires once every 5 years or so; and lube the chain, and that's all the maintenance it requires.
I get the impression that there are, approximately, three kinds of bike:
- $150 from the department store
- $550+ from the bike store
- $1500..15000 racing bikes
I'm thinking a second-hand version of category #2 could be better than a new #1.
Replacing all the replaceables though -- new tires, new brake pads, new chain and cassette -- might cost a good fraction of $100.
Edit to add: if you're "on gravel roads and maybe light gravel trails" then you might want good tires, puncture-resistant tires, maybe touring (long distance) tires.
The tread doesn't matter, and a thick/heavy tread (knobbly tires) just makes it slower (because your pedalling effort goes towards deforming the tires as it rolls), maybe they're for mud or something I don't know, what matters to me is the resistance to little chips of stone.
I ride a gravel cycle path all the time and the tires are among the best components on my bike -- I bought them specially, they didn't come with the bike. Someone with a road bike and lighter tires maybe wouldn't ride that path.
A wider wheel, like 32 rather than the 23 you'd find on a racing bike, might be more suitable for that too.
edited 1 hour ago
answered 7 hours ago
ChrisW
8,66464681
8,66464681
2
nod. My ex-brother-in-law used to do bike builds for a department store, and they got a lot of parts that were just wrong -- threaded backwards or such. He rescued enough such components from the trash to build a bike for himself -- but anyone who didn't know its quirks wouldn't get a block without it falling apart; and if the builds were done by someone other than him, some of those parts might have made it onto customer bikes. Gotta agree with the "second-hand #2" recommendation.
– Charles Duffy
3 hours ago
A wider wheel, like 32 rather than the 23 you'd find on a racing bike, might be more suitable for that too. Absolutely true. Don't take a 23 tire on gravel. If you're lucky you'll just rattle all the fillings out of your teeth. If you're unlucky you'll tear the sidewall on a nasty rock. Tire clearance on used road frame should be something looked at - avoid a racing frame that can't even handle 28s, much less 32s.
– Andrew Henle
1 hour ago
add a comment |
2
nod. My ex-brother-in-law used to do bike builds for a department store, and they got a lot of parts that were just wrong -- threaded backwards or such. He rescued enough such components from the trash to build a bike for himself -- but anyone who didn't know its quirks wouldn't get a block without it falling apart; and if the builds were done by someone other than him, some of those parts might have made it onto customer bikes. Gotta agree with the "second-hand #2" recommendation.
– Charles Duffy
3 hours ago
A wider wheel, like 32 rather than the 23 you'd find on a racing bike, might be more suitable for that too. Absolutely true. Don't take a 23 tire on gravel. If you're lucky you'll just rattle all the fillings out of your teeth. If you're unlucky you'll tear the sidewall on a nasty rock. Tire clearance on used road frame should be something looked at - avoid a racing frame that can't even handle 28s, much less 32s.
– Andrew Henle
1 hour ago
2
2
nod. My ex-brother-in-law used to do bike builds for a department store, and they got a lot of parts that were just wrong -- threaded backwards or such. He rescued enough such components from the trash to build a bike for himself -- but anyone who didn't know its quirks wouldn't get a block without it falling apart; and if the builds were done by someone other than him, some of those parts might have made it onto customer bikes. Gotta agree with the "second-hand #2" recommendation.
– Charles Duffy
3 hours ago
nod. My ex-brother-in-law used to do bike builds for a department store, and they got a lot of parts that were just wrong -- threaded backwards or such. He rescued enough such components from the trash to build a bike for himself -- but anyone who didn't know its quirks wouldn't get a block without it falling apart; and if the builds were done by someone other than him, some of those parts might have made it onto customer bikes. Gotta agree with the "second-hand #2" recommendation.
– Charles Duffy
3 hours ago
A wider wheel, like 32 rather than the 23 you'd find on a racing bike, might be more suitable for that too. Absolutely true. Don't take a 23 tire on gravel. If you're lucky you'll just rattle all the fillings out of your teeth. If you're unlucky you'll tear the sidewall on a nasty rock. Tire clearance on used road frame should be something looked at - avoid a racing frame that can't even handle 28s, much less 32s.
– Andrew Henle
1 hour ago
A wider wheel, like 32 rather than the 23 you'd find on a racing bike, might be more suitable for that too. Absolutely true. Don't take a 23 tire on gravel. If you're lucky you'll just rattle all the fillings out of your teeth. If you're unlucky you'll tear the sidewall on a nasty rock. Tire clearance on used road frame should be something looked at - avoid a racing frame that can't even handle 28s, much less 32s.
– Andrew Henle
1 hour ago
add a comment |
Adding to Criggie's answer on buying used.
Craiglist seems to be a good source for used basic bikes where I live. Facebook groups and forums tend to be a bit more specialized and deal in higher end bikes and components. I'd try to get a bike that is a couple of years old and has not seen too much use. A reasonable seller should be able to tell you the year they bought it.
I'd get familiar with the hierarchy of Shimano drivetrain and brake component group-sets so you have some idea of the quality of bikes you are looking at. Most hybrid bikes come with MTB groups. The levels you are likely to encounter are, in order of decreasing quality: Deore, Alivio, Acera, Altus, Tourney.
Higher groupsets shift and brake better, and are more robust. For the riding you want to do anything above Tourney should be fine. You'll often see bikes with a mix of two levels.
Many hybrids have front suspension. At the price point you are looking at suspension forks just add weight, but you may find that finding a suitable used bike without them is hard just because they are so ubiquitous. If you can live with the weight it's OK, and I'd certainly pick a bike in great condition with suspension forks over one in a poorer condition without. Avoid cheap full suspension bikes at all cost.
add a comment |
Adding to Criggie's answer on buying used.
Craiglist seems to be a good source for used basic bikes where I live. Facebook groups and forums tend to be a bit more specialized and deal in higher end bikes and components. I'd try to get a bike that is a couple of years old and has not seen too much use. A reasonable seller should be able to tell you the year they bought it.
I'd get familiar with the hierarchy of Shimano drivetrain and brake component group-sets so you have some idea of the quality of bikes you are looking at. Most hybrid bikes come with MTB groups. The levels you are likely to encounter are, in order of decreasing quality: Deore, Alivio, Acera, Altus, Tourney.
Higher groupsets shift and brake better, and are more robust. For the riding you want to do anything above Tourney should be fine. You'll often see bikes with a mix of two levels.
Many hybrids have front suspension. At the price point you are looking at suspension forks just add weight, but you may find that finding a suitable used bike without them is hard just because they are so ubiquitous. If you can live with the weight it's OK, and I'd certainly pick a bike in great condition with suspension forks over one in a poorer condition without. Avoid cheap full suspension bikes at all cost.
add a comment |
Adding to Criggie's answer on buying used.
Craiglist seems to be a good source for used basic bikes where I live. Facebook groups and forums tend to be a bit more specialized and deal in higher end bikes and components. I'd try to get a bike that is a couple of years old and has not seen too much use. A reasonable seller should be able to tell you the year they bought it.
I'd get familiar with the hierarchy of Shimano drivetrain and brake component group-sets so you have some idea of the quality of bikes you are looking at. Most hybrid bikes come with MTB groups. The levels you are likely to encounter are, in order of decreasing quality: Deore, Alivio, Acera, Altus, Tourney.
Higher groupsets shift and brake better, and are more robust. For the riding you want to do anything above Tourney should be fine. You'll often see bikes with a mix of two levels.
Many hybrids have front suspension. At the price point you are looking at suspension forks just add weight, but you may find that finding a suitable used bike without them is hard just because they are so ubiquitous. If you can live with the weight it's OK, and I'd certainly pick a bike in great condition with suspension forks over one in a poorer condition without. Avoid cheap full suspension bikes at all cost.
Adding to Criggie's answer on buying used.
Craiglist seems to be a good source for used basic bikes where I live. Facebook groups and forums tend to be a bit more specialized and deal in higher end bikes and components. I'd try to get a bike that is a couple of years old and has not seen too much use. A reasonable seller should be able to tell you the year they bought it.
I'd get familiar with the hierarchy of Shimano drivetrain and brake component group-sets so you have some idea of the quality of bikes you are looking at. Most hybrid bikes come with MTB groups. The levels you are likely to encounter are, in order of decreasing quality: Deore, Alivio, Acera, Altus, Tourney.
Higher groupsets shift and brake better, and are more robust. For the riding you want to do anything above Tourney should be fine. You'll often see bikes with a mix of two levels.
Many hybrids have front suspension. At the price point you are looking at suspension forks just add weight, but you may find that finding a suitable used bike without them is hard just because they are so ubiquitous. If you can live with the weight it's OK, and I'd certainly pick a bike in great condition with suspension forks over one in a poorer condition without. Avoid cheap full suspension bikes at all cost.
answered 1 hour ago
Argenti Apparatus
32.5k23483
32.5k23483
add a comment |
add a comment |
You can get a perfectly good bike at Walmart for $89.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Roadmaster-Granite-Peak-Men-s-Mountain-Bike-Black/55376950
Get the 3 year warranty for $11. If something breaks in 3 years, Walmart will give you another new bike. If not, you can sell it for $10 at a tag sale.
This particular bike has front springs, but you will never notice they are there unless you jump off a ramp.
Please don't listen to the bike snobs. They are a cancer on cheap transportation.
Edit: You will notice that the bike snobs that infest the Internet are downvoting my answer. They can't explain why Walmart sells millions of affordable bicycles to people like me every year. It's because they are a good choice for the price, and I speak as someone who bikes to work every day - and NOT in Spandex!
New contributor
2
Any bike beats walking but a cheap BSO earns its well-deserved derision from bike mechanics for the poor build quality, not from the lycra bike snobs who really don't care.
– Criggie♦
3 hours ago
1
I commuted on a cheap bike for years, on a commute that was about 6 km each way. I wanted and bought a better bike later, when my commute increase to 18 km each way. I don't know if you've tried a better bike, it's surprising how much better it can be.
– ChrisW
1 hour ago
I didn't downvote (yet...), but you're the one being an arrogant snob by completely and pejoratively dismissing opinions that differ from your's. Component quality does matter. Next you're going to say a Honda, Toyota, or Mercedes doesn't last longer than a Yugo? Let's put it this way: tell us what you think of your Walmart bike after you put 300-400 miles on it. In a single week. Or 2,000 miles on it. In a single month. Until you've done that - you don't know what you're talking about.
– Andrew Henle
1 hour ago
Part of the reason why Walmart sells millions of bikes is that any repair would be more expensive than new bike, and those bikes break a lot.
– ojs
1 hour ago
add a comment |
You can get a perfectly good bike at Walmart for $89.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Roadmaster-Granite-Peak-Men-s-Mountain-Bike-Black/55376950
Get the 3 year warranty for $11. If something breaks in 3 years, Walmart will give you another new bike. If not, you can sell it for $10 at a tag sale.
This particular bike has front springs, but you will never notice they are there unless you jump off a ramp.
Please don't listen to the bike snobs. They are a cancer on cheap transportation.
Edit: You will notice that the bike snobs that infest the Internet are downvoting my answer. They can't explain why Walmart sells millions of affordable bicycles to people like me every year. It's because they are a good choice for the price, and I speak as someone who bikes to work every day - and NOT in Spandex!
New contributor
2
Any bike beats walking but a cheap BSO earns its well-deserved derision from bike mechanics for the poor build quality, not from the lycra bike snobs who really don't care.
– Criggie♦
3 hours ago
1
I commuted on a cheap bike for years, on a commute that was about 6 km each way. I wanted and bought a better bike later, when my commute increase to 18 km each way. I don't know if you've tried a better bike, it's surprising how much better it can be.
– ChrisW
1 hour ago
I didn't downvote (yet...), but you're the one being an arrogant snob by completely and pejoratively dismissing opinions that differ from your's. Component quality does matter. Next you're going to say a Honda, Toyota, or Mercedes doesn't last longer than a Yugo? Let's put it this way: tell us what you think of your Walmart bike after you put 300-400 miles on it. In a single week. Or 2,000 miles on it. In a single month. Until you've done that - you don't know what you're talking about.
– Andrew Henle
1 hour ago
Part of the reason why Walmart sells millions of bikes is that any repair would be more expensive than new bike, and those bikes break a lot.
– ojs
1 hour ago
add a comment |
You can get a perfectly good bike at Walmart for $89.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Roadmaster-Granite-Peak-Men-s-Mountain-Bike-Black/55376950
Get the 3 year warranty for $11. If something breaks in 3 years, Walmart will give you another new bike. If not, you can sell it for $10 at a tag sale.
This particular bike has front springs, but you will never notice they are there unless you jump off a ramp.
Please don't listen to the bike snobs. They are a cancer on cheap transportation.
Edit: You will notice that the bike snobs that infest the Internet are downvoting my answer. They can't explain why Walmart sells millions of affordable bicycles to people like me every year. It's because they are a good choice for the price, and I speak as someone who bikes to work every day - and NOT in Spandex!
New contributor
You can get a perfectly good bike at Walmart for $89.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/26-Roadmaster-Granite-Peak-Men-s-Mountain-Bike-Black/55376950
Get the 3 year warranty for $11. If something breaks in 3 years, Walmart will give you another new bike. If not, you can sell it for $10 at a tag sale.
This particular bike has front springs, but you will never notice they are there unless you jump off a ramp.
Please don't listen to the bike snobs. They are a cancer on cheap transportation.
Edit: You will notice that the bike snobs that infest the Internet are downvoting my answer. They can't explain why Walmart sells millions of affordable bicycles to people like me every year. It's because they are a good choice for the price, and I speak as someone who bikes to work every day - and NOT in Spandex!
New contributor
edited 3 hours ago
New contributor
answered 3 hours ago
Bob Cat
11
11
New contributor
New contributor
2
Any bike beats walking but a cheap BSO earns its well-deserved derision from bike mechanics for the poor build quality, not from the lycra bike snobs who really don't care.
– Criggie♦
3 hours ago
1
I commuted on a cheap bike for years, on a commute that was about 6 km each way. I wanted and bought a better bike later, when my commute increase to 18 km each way. I don't know if you've tried a better bike, it's surprising how much better it can be.
– ChrisW
1 hour ago
I didn't downvote (yet...), but you're the one being an arrogant snob by completely and pejoratively dismissing opinions that differ from your's. Component quality does matter. Next you're going to say a Honda, Toyota, or Mercedes doesn't last longer than a Yugo? Let's put it this way: tell us what you think of your Walmart bike after you put 300-400 miles on it. In a single week. Or 2,000 miles on it. In a single month. Until you've done that - you don't know what you're talking about.
– Andrew Henle
1 hour ago
Part of the reason why Walmart sells millions of bikes is that any repair would be more expensive than new bike, and those bikes break a lot.
– ojs
1 hour ago
add a comment |
2
Any bike beats walking but a cheap BSO earns its well-deserved derision from bike mechanics for the poor build quality, not from the lycra bike snobs who really don't care.
– Criggie♦
3 hours ago
1
I commuted on a cheap bike for years, on a commute that was about 6 km each way. I wanted and bought a better bike later, when my commute increase to 18 km each way. I don't know if you've tried a better bike, it's surprising how much better it can be.
– ChrisW
1 hour ago
I didn't downvote (yet...), but you're the one being an arrogant snob by completely and pejoratively dismissing opinions that differ from your's. Component quality does matter. Next you're going to say a Honda, Toyota, or Mercedes doesn't last longer than a Yugo? Let's put it this way: tell us what you think of your Walmart bike after you put 300-400 miles on it. In a single week. Or 2,000 miles on it. In a single month. Until you've done that - you don't know what you're talking about.
– Andrew Henle
1 hour ago
Part of the reason why Walmart sells millions of bikes is that any repair would be more expensive than new bike, and those bikes break a lot.
– ojs
1 hour ago
2
2
Any bike beats walking but a cheap BSO earns its well-deserved derision from bike mechanics for the poor build quality, not from the lycra bike snobs who really don't care.
– Criggie♦
3 hours ago
Any bike beats walking but a cheap BSO earns its well-deserved derision from bike mechanics for the poor build quality, not from the lycra bike snobs who really don't care.
– Criggie♦
3 hours ago
1
1
I commuted on a cheap bike for years, on a commute that was about 6 km each way. I wanted and bought a better bike later, when my commute increase to 18 km each way. I don't know if you've tried a better bike, it's surprising how much better it can be.
– ChrisW
1 hour ago
I commuted on a cheap bike for years, on a commute that was about 6 km each way. I wanted and bought a better bike later, when my commute increase to 18 km each way. I don't know if you've tried a better bike, it's surprising how much better it can be.
– ChrisW
1 hour ago
I didn't downvote (yet...), but you're the one being an arrogant snob by completely and pejoratively dismissing opinions that differ from your's. Component quality does matter. Next you're going to say a Honda, Toyota, or Mercedes doesn't last longer than a Yugo? Let's put it this way: tell us what you think of your Walmart bike after you put 300-400 miles on it. In a single week. Or 2,000 miles on it. In a single month. Until you've done that - you don't know what you're talking about.
– Andrew Henle
1 hour ago
I didn't downvote (yet...), but you're the one being an arrogant snob by completely and pejoratively dismissing opinions that differ from your's. Component quality does matter. Next you're going to say a Honda, Toyota, or Mercedes doesn't last longer than a Yugo? Let's put it this way: tell us what you think of your Walmart bike after you put 300-400 miles on it. In a single week. Or 2,000 miles on it. In a single month. Until you've done that - you don't know what you're talking about.
– Andrew Henle
1 hour ago
Part of the reason why Walmart sells millions of bikes is that any repair would be more expensive than new bike, and those bikes break a lot.
– ojs
1 hour ago
Part of the reason why Walmart sells millions of bikes is that any repair would be more expensive than new bike, and those bikes break a lot.
– ojs
1 hour ago
add a comment |
PetterJhon is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
PetterJhon is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
PetterJhon is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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Yep, used. Shop some more garage sales, looking for a better quality bike.
– Daniel R Hicks
10 hours ago
1
Welcome on the site, and questions about cheaper bikes are great, don't worry.
– Nobody
9 hours ago
2
Two words; Police auctions
– Richard
6 hours ago
1
In Austin TX, there's (well, used to be; haven't lived there in half a decade) a great little bike shop on the east side owned by a former head of Yellow Bike Project (local nonprofit fixing up / giving away / training people to repair bikes) that, while a for-profit business, made it their primary purpose to cater to commuters needing cheap, reliable transportation; they both sold cheap bikes and would do repairs very inexpensively using used parts. I'm sure there are similar places elsewhere.
– Charles Duffy
3 hours ago
1
@CharlesDuffy Feel free to edit the YBP answer in bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1686/19705 to increase the depth of detail.
– Criggie♦
3 hours ago