What is the torque needed for chainring bolts?
up vote
4
down vote
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I have a bike that is no longer in production, but it has a standard drivetrain (FSA). I had some shifting issues the past couple days, and to my surprise when I did a clean/inspect, three of the 5 chainring bolts had dropped out and the other two were finger loose.
I salvaged some bolts from my donor bike. I needed a breaker attachment to my 5mm hex to get them off. There was no residual threadlock on the threads. Now I'm unsure how hard I should tighten them onto the first bike.
Why would they have come loose in the first place? How hard should I tighten them to prevent this from happening again? Would a dab of threadlock be good insurance?
chainring
asked Nov 28 at 4:08
AdamO
1797
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
I have a bike that is no longer in production, but it has a standard drivetrain (FSA). I had some shifting issues the past couple days, and to my surprise when I did a clean/inspect, three of the 5 chainring bolts had dropped out and the other two were finger loose.
I salvaged some bolts from my donor bike. I needed a breaker attachment to my 5mm hex to get them off. There was no residual threadlock on the threads. Now I'm unsure how hard I should tighten them onto the first bike.
Why would they have come loose in the first place? How hard should I tighten them to prevent this from happening again? Would a dab of threadlock be good insurance?
chainring
asked Nov 28 at 4:08
AdamO
1797
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
I have a bike that is no longer in production, but it has a standard drivetrain (FSA). I had some shifting issues the past couple days, and to my surprise when I did a clean/inspect, three of the 5 chainring bolts had dropped out and the other two were finger loose.
I salvaged some bolts from my donor bike. I needed a breaker attachment to my 5mm hex to get them off. There was no residual threadlock on the threads. Now I'm unsure how hard I should tighten them onto the first bike.
Why would they have come loose in the first place? How hard should I tighten them to prevent this from happening again? Would a dab of threadlock be good insurance?
chainring
asked Nov 28 at 4:08
AdamO
1797
I have a bike that is no longer in production, but it has a standard drivetrain (FSA). I had some shifting issues the past couple days, and to my surprise when I did a clean/inspect, three of the 5 chainring bolts had dropped out and the other two were finger loose.
I salvaged some bolts from my donor bike. I needed a breaker attachment to my 5mm hex to get them off. There was no residual threadlock on the threads. Now I'm unsure how hard I should tighten them onto the first bike.
Why would they have come loose in the first place? How hard should I tighten them to prevent this from happening again? Would a dab of threadlock be good insurance?
chainring
chainring
asked Nov 28 at 4:08
AdamO
1797
asked Nov 28 at 4:08
AdamO
1797
asked Nov 28 at 4:08
AdamO
1797
asked Nov 28 at 4:08
AdamO
1797
asked Nov 28 at 4:08
AdamO
1797
1797
add a comment |
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
up vote
6
down vote
accepted
A Shimano "General Operations" manual states the tightening torque for road chainwheels is 12-14 N-m. For mountain bike chainwheels it's upped to 14-16 N-m for large and middle ring and 16-17 N-m for the smallest ring of a triple.
The website: http://si.shimano.com/#/
The manual number I'm referring to: DM-GN0001-20-ENG.pdf
Blue loctite or equivalent threadlocker is indicated here as well.
I can't accurately surmise the cause of the loose and lost bolts in this specific case. However my experience with situations of loosening bolts or part failure due to "coming apart" in various mechanical settings often comes down to incorrect or incomplete tightening of the fastener (bolt, nut, etc). Part of this process is rechecking and re-torqueing after a break-in period of normal use.
answered Nov 28 at 8:05
Jeff
3144
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
Park tool has a great reference Here
(all inch-pound)
Chainring bolt- steel
Shimano 70-95
Campagnolo® 84-120
Race Face&erg; 100
Truvativ® 107-124
Jury is out on thread lock on chain ring bolts. A do not believe a light thread lock will hurt ( until you need to remove them), but also believe correctly tightened bolts should not need it. The problem is the little two prong thing used to hold the nut is unlikely to allow a decent torque.
Better to give the threads a good clean and lightly grease the threads.
answered Nov 28 at 8:09
mattnz
23.9k23375
I use low strength loctite 222 on the bolts and always carry a spare chainring bolt
– Vorsprung
Nov 28 at 13:01
If tightened to the correct torque, I have never had a chainring bolt come loose with the application of light grease. I agree that thread lock could cause more problems than help.
– Rider_X
Nov 28 at 14:27
@Rider_X Do you mean to grease the inner threads so as to prevent crossthreading or grease the outside of the female part so that it plays more freely in the chainring recesses? Also what grease do you use? I will cinche down to bolts to the specified torques without chain lock and look after them for a week to see how they fair.
– AdamO
Nov 28 at 15:04
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
On my race BMX's I put cable ties through the chain ring bolts once they are correctly tightened as this prevents them falling out if they come loose. You need to still check them regularly to ensure that they have not come loose.
Cable ties are a good insurance policy to stop them dropping out.
answered Nov 28 at 10:36
fcbsd
16616
add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
6
down vote
accepted
A Shimano "General Operations" manual states the tightening torque for road chainwheels is 12-14 N-m. For mountain bike chainwheels it's upped to 14-16 N-m for large and middle ring and 16-17 N-m for the smallest ring of a triple.
The website: http://si.shimano.com/#/
The manual number I'm referring to: DM-GN0001-20-ENG.pdf
Blue loctite or equivalent threadlocker is indicated here as well.
I can't accurately surmise the cause of the loose and lost bolts in this specific case. However my experience with situations of loosening bolts or part failure due to "coming apart" in various mechanical settings often comes down to incorrect or incomplete tightening of the fastener (bolt, nut, etc). Part of this process is rechecking and re-torqueing after a break-in period of normal use.
answered Nov 28 at 8:05
Jeff
3144
add a comment |
up vote
6
down vote
accepted
A Shimano "General Operations" manual states the tightening torque for road chainwheels is 12-14 N-m. For mountain bike chainwheels it's upped to 14-16 N-m for large and middle ring and 16-17 N-m for the smallest ring of a triple.
The website: http://si.shimano.com/#/
The manual number I'm referring to: DM-GN0001-20-ENG.pdf
Blue loctite or equivalent threadlocker is indicated here as well.
I can't accurately surmise the cause of the loose and lost bolts in this specific case. However my experience with situations of loosening bolts or part failure due to "coming apart" in various mechanical settings often comes down to incorrect or incomplete tightening of the fastener (bolt, nut, etc). Part of this process is rechecking and re-torqueing after a break-in period of normal use.
answered Nov 28 at 8:05
Jeff
3144
add a comment |
up vote
6
down vote
accepted
up vote
6
down vote
accepted
A Shimano "General Operations" manual states the tightening torque for road chainwheels is 12-14 N-m. For mountain bike chainwheels it's upped to 14-16 N-m for large and middle ring and 16-17 N-m for the smallest ring of a triple.
The website: http://si.shimano.com/#/
The manual number I'm referring to: DM-GN0001-20-ENG.pdf
Blue loctite or equivalent threadlocker is indicated here as well.
I can't accurately surmise the cause of the loose and lost bolts in this specific case. However my experience with situations of loosening bolts or part failure due to "coming apart" in various mechanical settings often comes down to incorrect or incomplete tightening of the fastener (bolt, nut, etc). Part of this process is rechecking and re-torqueing after a break-in period of normal use.
answered Nov 28 at 8:05
Jeff
3144
A Shimano "General Operations" manual states the tightening torque for road chainwheels is 12-14 N-m. For mountain bike chainwheels it's upped to 14-16 N-m for large and middle ring and 16-17 N-m for the smallest ring of a triple.
The website: http://si.shimano.com/#/
The manual number I'm referring to: DM-GN0001-20-ENG.pdf
Blue loctite or equivalent threadlocker is indicated here as well.
I can't accurately surmise the cause of the loose and lost bolts in this specific case. However my experience with situations of loosening bolts or part failure due to "coming apart" in various mechanical settings often comes down to incorrect or incomplete tightening of the fastener (bolt, nut, etc). Part of this process is rechecking and re-torqueing after a break-in period of normal use.
answered Nov 28 at 8:05
Jeff
3144
answered Nov 28 at 8:05
Jeff
3144
answered Nov 28 at 8:05
Jeff
3144
answered Nov 28 at 8:05
Jeff
3144
3144
add a comment |
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
Park tool has a great reference Here
(all inch-pound)
Chainring bolt- steel
Shimano 70-95
Campagnolo® 84-120
Race Face&erg; 100
Truvativ® 107-124
Jury is out on thread lock on chain ring bolts. A do not believe a light thread lock will hurt ( until you need to remove them), but also believe correctly tightened bolts should not need it. The problem is the little two prong thing used to hold the nut is unlikely to allow a decent torque.
Better to give the threads a good clean and lightly grease the threads.
answered Nov 28 at 8:09
mattnz
23.9k23375
I use low strength loctite 222 on the bolts and always carry a spare chainring bolt
– Vorsprung
Nov 28 at 13:01
If tightened to the correct torque, I have never had a chainring bolt come loose with the application of light grease. I agree that thread lock could cause more problems than help.
– Rider_X
Nov 28 at 14:27
@Rider_X Do you mean to grease the inner threads so as to prevent crossthreading or grease the outside of the female part so that it plays more freely in the chainring recesses? Also what grease do you use? I will cinche down to bolts to the specified torques without chain lock and look after them for a week to see how they fair.
– AdamO
Nov 28 at 15:04
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
Park tool has a great reference Here
(all inch-pound)
Chainring bolt- steel
Shimano 70-95
Campagnolo® 84-120
Race Face&erg; 100
Truvativ® 107-124
Jury is out on thread lock on chain ring bolts. A do not believe a light thread lock will hurt ( until you need to remove them), but also believe correctly tightened bolts should not need it. The problem is the little two prong thing used to hold the nut is unlikely to allow a decent torque.
Better to give the threads a good clean and lightly grease the threads.
answered Nov 28 at 8:09
mattnz
23.9k23375
I use low strength loctite 222 on the bolts and always carry a spare chainring bolt
– Vorsprung
Nov 28 at 13:01
If tightened to the correct torque, I have never had a chainring bolt come loose with the application of light grease. I agree that thread lock could cause more problems than help.
– Rider_X
Nov 28 at 14:27
@Rider_X Do you mean to grease the inner threads so as to prevent crossthreading or grease the outside of the female part so that it plays more freely in the chainring recesses? Also what grease do you use? I will cinche down to bolts to the specified torques without chain lock and look after them for a week to see how they fair.
– AdamO
Nov 28 at 15:04
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
up vote
4
down vote
Park tool has a great reference Here
(all inch-pound)
Chainring bolt- steel
Shimano 70-95
Campagnolo® 84-120
Race Face&erg; 100
Truvativ® 107-124
Jury is out on thread lock on chain ring bolts. A do not believe a light thread lock will hurt ( until you need to remove them), but also believe correctly tightened bolts should not need it. The problem is the little two prong thing used to hold the nut is unlikely to allow a decent torque.
Better to give the threads a good clean and lightly grease the threads.
answered Nov 28 at 8:09
mattnz
23.9k23375
Park tool has a great reference Here
(all inch-pound)
Chainring bolt- steel
Shimano 70-95
Campagnolo® 84-120
Race Face&erg; 100
Truvativ® 107-124
Jury is out on thread lock on chain ring bolts. A do not believe a light thread lock will hurt ( until you need to remove them), but also believe correctly tightened bolts should not need it. The problem is the little two prong thing used to hold the nut is unlikely to allow a decent torque.
Better to give the threads a good clean and lightly grease the threads.
answered Nov 28 at 8:09
mattnz
23.9k23375
answered Nov 28 at 8:09
mattnz
23.9k23375
answered Nov 28 at 8:09
mattnz
23.9k23375
answered Nov 28 at 8:09
mattnz
23.9k23375
23.9k23375
I use low strength loctite 222 on the bolts and always carry a spare chainring bolt
– Vorsprung
Nov 28 at 13:01
If tightened to the correct torque, I have never had a chainring bolt come loose with the application of light grease. I agree that thread lock could cause more problems than help.
– Rider_X
Nov 28 at 14:27
@Rider_X Do you mean to grease the inner threads so as to prevent crossthreading or grease the outside of the female part so that it plays more freely in the chainring recesses? Also what grease do you use? I will cinche down to bolts to the specified torques without chain lock and look after them for a week to see how they fair.
– AdamO
Nov 28 at 15:04
add a comment |
I use low strength loctite 222 on the bolts and always carry a spare chainring bolt
– Vorsprung
Nov 28 at 13:01
If tightened to the correct torque, I have never had a chainring bolt come loose with the application of light grease. I agree that thread lock could cause more problems than help.
– Rider_X
Nov 28 at 14:27
@Rider_X Do you mean to grease the inner threads so as to prevent crossthreading or grease the outside of the female part so that it plays more freely in the chainring recesses? Also what grease do you use? I will cinche down to bolts to the specified torques without chain lock and look after them for a week to see how they fair.
– AdamO
Nov 28 at 15:04
I use low strength loctite 222 on the bolts and always carry a spare chainring bolt
– Vorsprung
Nov 28 at 13:01
I use low strength loctite 222 on the bolts and always carry a spare chainring bolt
– Vorsprung
Nov 28 at 13:01
If tightened to the correct torque, I have never had a chainring bolt come loose with the application of light grease. I agree that thread lock could cause more problems than help.
– Rider_X
Nov 28 at 14:27
If tightened to the correct torque, I have never had a chainring bolt come loose with the application of light grease. I agree that thread lock could cause more problems than help.
– Rider_X
Nov 28 at 14:27
@Rider_X Do you mean to grease the inner threads so as to prevent crossthreading or grease the outside of the female part so that it plays more freely in the chainring recesses? Also what grease do you use? I will cinche down to bolts to the specified torques without chain lock and look after them for a week to see how they fair.
– AdamO
Nov 28 at 15:04
@Rider_X Do you mean to grease the inner threads so as to prevent crossthreading or grease the outside of the female part so that it plays more freely in the chainring recesses? Also what grease do you use? I will cinche down to bolts to the specified torques without chain lock and look after them for a week to see how they fair.
– AdamO
Nov 28 at 15:04
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
On my race BMX's I put cable ties through the chain ring bolts once they are correctly tightened as this prevents them falling out if they come loose. You need to still check them regularly to ensure that they have not come loose.
Cable ties are a good insurance policy to stop them dropping out.
answered Nov 28 at 10:36
fcbsd
16616
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
On my race BMX's I put cable ties through the chain ring bolts once they are correctly tightened as this prevents them falling out if they come loose. You need to still check them regularly to ensure that they have not come loose.
Cable ties are a good insurance policy to stop them dropping out.
answered Nov 28 at 10:36
fcbsd
16616
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
On my race BMX's I put cable ties through the chain ring bolts once they are correctly tightened as this prevents them falling out if they come loose. You need to still check them regularly to ensure that they have not come loose.
Cable ties are a good insurance policy to stop them dropping out.
answered Nov 28 at 10:36
fcbsd
16616
On my race BMX's I put cable ties through the chain ring bolts once they are correctly tightened as this prevents them falling out if they come loose. You need to still check them regularly to ensure that they have not come loose.
Cable ties are a good insurance policy to stop them dropping out.
answered Nov 28 at 10:36
fcbsd
16616
answered Nov 28 at 10:36
fcbsd
16616
answered Nov 28 at 10:36
fcbsd
16616
answered Nov 28 at 10:36
fcbsd
16616
16616
add a comment |
add a comment |
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