What features to consider when selecting a ring flash?












3















I have a Nikon d7200 camera and managed to get my hands on Tamron 90mm f2.8 macro lens. While trying to take some shots at 1:1, I found lighting a big issue if I am stopping my lens down. I was suggested to buy a ring flash.



My question is, how do I select a ring flash? What parameters should I be looking at? I am not a professional, just a beginner trying it out as a hobby. Only flash I have at present is the pop up flash that is built into the body. Thanks.










share|improve this question




















  • 1





    what do you want to photograph?

    – aaaaaa
    12 hours ago













  • Insects mainly. Other interest is patterns of leaves or flowers. But, that I manage by moving it indoors where there is sufficient light. With insects, I mean, live ones.

    – Anand Mohan
    7 hours ago
















3















I have a Nikon d7200 camera and managed to get my hands on Tamron 90mm f2.8 macro lens. While trying to take some shots at 1:1, I found lighting a big issue if I am stopping my lens down. I was suggested to buy a ring flash.



My question is, how do I select a ring flash? What parameters should I be looking at? I am not a professional, just a beginner trying it out as a hobby. Only flash I have at present is the pop up flash that is built into the body. Thanks.










share|improve this question




















  • 1





    what do you want to photograph?

    – aaaaaa
    12 hours ago













  • Insects mainly. Other interest is patterns of leaves or flowers. But, that I manage by moving it indoors where there is sufficient light. With insects, I mean, live ones.

    – Anand Mohan
    7 hours ago














3












3








3








I have a Nikon d7200 camera and managed to get my hands on Tamron 90mm f2.8 macro lens. While trying to take some shots at 1:1, I found lighting a big issue if I am stopping my lens down. I was suggested to buy a ring flash.



My question is, how do I select a ring flash? What parameters should I be looking at? I am not a professional, just a beginner trying it out as a hobby. Only flash I have at present is the pop up flash that is built into the body. Thanks.










share|improve this question
















I have a Nikon d7200 camera and managed to get my hands on Tamron 90mm f2.8 macro lens. While trying to take some shots at 1:1, I found lighting a big issue if I am stopping my lens down. I was suggested to buy a ring flash.



My question is, how do I select a ring flash? What parameters should I be looking at? I am not a professional, just a beginner trying it out as a hobby. Only flash I have at present is the pop up flash that is built into the body. Thanks.







equipment-recommendation macro ring-flash






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 21 hours ago









xiota

11.2k31862




11.2k31862










asked yesterday









Anand MohanAnand Mohan

255




255








  • 1





    what do you want to photograph?

    – aaaaaa
    12 hours ago













  • Insects mainly. Other interest is patterns of leaves or flowers. But, that I manage by moving it indoors where there is sufficient light. With insects, I mean, live ones.

    – Anand Mohan
    7 hours ago














  • 1





    what do you want to photograph?

    – aaaaaa
    12 hours ago













  • Insects mainly. Other interest is patterns of leaves or flowers. But, that I manage by moving it indoors where there is sufficient light. With insects, I mean, live ones.

    – Anand Mohan
    7 hours ago








1




1





what do you want to photograph?

– aaaaaa
12 hours ago







what do you want to photograph?

– aaaaaa
12 hours ago















Insects mainly. Other interest is patterns of leaves or flowers. But, that I manage by moving it indoors where there is sufficient light. With insects, I mean, live ones.

– Anand Mohan
7 hours ago





Insects mainly. Other interest is patterns of leaves or flowers. But, that I manage by moving it indoors where there is sufficient light. With insects, I mean, live ones.

– Anand Mohan
7 hours ago










4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes


















1














My first concern would be...



Do I need a ring flash?



Yes, having your big lens in front of a bug will cast shadows, and yes, a ring flash solve most cases, but it has a very particular look.



Here are some macro photos where you can see the light source is not a ring flash.
They are using lateral diffused light.





https://blazepress.com/2015/01/magical-macro-photography-bugs-vadim-trunov/



This one has the light above the bug (Cenital-ish)





https://guttikar.com/photography-news/macro-photography-tip-using-normal-lens-turned-around/



So, a normal radio trigger and an external Speedlight (probably with a softbox, even a small one) could be what you need.





But answering your question




  1. Will it fit my lens?


2. Does it have enough power if I need to lower the aperture to have better Depth of field?



3. Can you change the power output?




  1. Real flash or Continuous light.


  2. Bulkiness.


  3. Do you want to use it later, for portrait photography?





For macro photography, you do not need much power. So any led based light will do at a basic level.



Point 1 is pretty obvious.



Point 2 and 3 are the ones that will give you flexibility.



The rest is ok to consider.






share|improve this answer

































    6














    If you want a true ring flash, depending on your kind of macrophotography:




    • Still objects, plenty of time: you can work in manual, do test short... about any flash will do. No need for much power at close range.

    • Shooting outdoors, handheld, moving objects (bugs, etc...): something that is compatible with the camera TTL exposure will allow you to shoot using the camera auto modes.


    If you do very close shots, there are also circular LED lights that aren't technically flashes but are much less expensive and can do the job (Canon has a macro lens where such LED are built-in).



    Being able to use only one half of the device for side lighting is a useful feature (full ring flash tends to produce flat, shadow-less images).






    share|improve this answer


























    • Why would camera TTL be a deciding factor? Isn't it generally the case with macro that a lot of parameters are under control and the light is not usually rapidly changing?

      – mattdm
      22 hours ago






    • 2





      Depends on the kind of macro you do. Spiders and butterflies are rarely under my control, as are the leaves around them when there is some wind. No time for lengthy setup and test shots (this said, for this kind of macro I prefer the natural light).

      – xenoid
      20 hours ago











    • That certainly makes sense for those situations — maybe put it in the answer?

      – mattdm
      18 hours ago











    • @mattdm Edited.

      – xenoid
      18 hours ago



















    3














    Especially in case you are considering a legacy device, especially if non-TTL, check how low in power it can go.



    One example of a device hard to use nowadays is the Soligor AR-20 not infrequently found on the used market - this is a computer (external photocell) ring flash which is only specified for 20cm and more subject distance, and is designed to serve at either f/8 or f/16 at ISO 100.



    Some DSLRs/DSLMs do not even have ISO 100 anymore, and f/8 leaves you terribly little maneuvering space if you need to get closer or need to tone down a stop or two - you easily end up with your iso cranked all the way down, your aperture at f/22 (great DoF but you are in deep in diffraction territory here ... and when have you last cleaned your sensor? :) ), and still overexposing....






    share|improve this answer
























    • I’m guessing Soligor never created some ND attachments for their not-too-flexible flash?

      – Hueco
      16 hours ago











    • An ND attachment would be consummately pointless with a computer flash :)

      – rackandboneman
      14 hours ago











    • I’m unfamiliar with them. Will have to look it up!

      – Hueco
      13 hours ago






    • 1





      Computer flash (aka, even more incorrectly, thyristor flash): There is a photocell on the flash head itself, that will stop the flash output as soon as it got sufficient light reflected back into it to expose at an aperture and iso selectable (often not independently) on the flash unit. Like TTL, but more potential for metering error in complex setups, more potential for user error, no post-sync communication with camera needed at all. Most 1970s flashes work that way, so do most non-dedicated 1980s/1990s flashes (some dedicated ones can do both, TTL and comp.).

      – rackandboneman
      11 hours ago





















    2














    There are some cheap and cheerful ring flash adaptors if you've got an external flash. They work surprisingly well for close range considering they're basically just light guides, thought the one I have doesn't deliver as much light at the bottom as at the top/sides and needed a little modification to fit nicely. This isn't much of an issue if you're shooting landscape.



    Because they're dumb light guides, the TTL in your flash functions as it normally would.



    The only shot I've got to hand taken with it has blown highlights and was taken at annoyingly high ISO, which I forgot to change after shooting at dusk with a long lens. It was also cropped from a resized image I was using as a desktop background. But here it is anyway:



    enter image description here






    share|improve this answer























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      4 Answers
      4






      active

      oldest

      votes








      4 Answers
      4






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes









      1














      My first concern would be...



      Do I need a ring flash?



      Yes, having your big lens in front of a bug will cast shadows, and yes, a ring flash solve most cases, but it has a very particular look.



      Here are some macro photos where you can see the light source is not a ring flash.
      They are using lateral diffused light.





      https://blazepress.com/2015/01/magical-macro-photography-bugs-vadim-trunov/



      This one has the light above the bug (Cenital-ish)





      https://guttikar.com/photography-news/macro-photography-tip-using-normal-lens-turned-around/



      So, a normal radio trigger and an external Speedlight (probably with a softbox, even a small one) could be what you need.





      But answering your question




      1. Will it fit my lens?


      2. Does it have enough power if I need to lower the aperture to have better Depth of field?



      3. Can you change the power output?




      1. Real flash or Continuous light.


      2. Bulkiness.


      3. Do you want to use it later, for portrait photography?





      For macro photography, you do not need much power. So any led based light will do at a basic level.



      Point 1 is pretty obvious.



      Point 2 and 3 are the ones that will give you flexibility.



      The rest is ok to consider.






      share|improve this answer






























        1














        My first concern would be...



        Do I need a ring flash?



        Yes, having your big lens in front of a bug will cast shadows, and yes, a ring flash solve most cases, but it has a very particular look.



        Here are some macro photos where you can see the light source is not a ring flash.
        They are using lateral diffused light.





        https://blazepress.com/2015/01/magical-macro-photography-bugs-vadim-trunov/



        This one has the light above the bug (Cenital-ish)





        https://guttikar.com/photography-news/macro-photography-tip-using-normal-lens-turned-around/



        So, a normal radio trigger and an external Speedlight (probably with a softbox, even a small one) could be what you need.





        But answering your question




        1. Will it fit my lens?


        2. Does it have enough power if I need to lower the aperture to have better Depth of field?



        3. Can you change the power output?




        1. Real flash or Continuous light.


        2. Bulkiness.


        3. Do you want to use it later, for portrait photography?





        For macro photography, you do not need much power. So any led based light will do at a basic level.



        Point 1 is pretty obvious.



        Point 2 and 3 are the ones that will give you flexibility.



        The rest is ok to consider.






        share|improve this answer




























          1












          1








          1







          My first concern would be...



          Do I need a ring flash?



          Yes, having your big lens in front of a bug will cast shadows, and yes, a ring flash solve most cases, but it has a very particular look.



          Here are some macro photos where you can see the light source is not a ring flash.
          They are using lateral diffused light.





          https://blazepress.com/2015/01/magical-macro-photography-bugs-vadim-trunov/



          This one has the light above the bug (Cenital-ish)





          https://guttikar.com/photography-news/macro-photography-tip-using-normal-lens-turned-around/



          So, a normal radio trigger and an external Speedlight (probably with a softbox, even a small one) could be what you need.





          But answering your question




          1. Will it fit my lens?


          2. Does it have enough power if I need to lower the aperture to have better Depth of field?



          3. Can you change the power output?




          1. Real flash or Continuous light.


          2. Bulkiness.


          3. Do you want to use it later, for portrait photography?





          For macro photography, you do not need much power. So any led based light will do at a basic level.



          Point 1 is pretty obvious.



          Point 2 and 3 are the ones that will give you flexibility.



          The rest is ok to consider.






          share|improve this answer















          My first concern would be...



          Do I need a ring flash?



          Yes, having your big lens in front of a bug will cast shadows, and yes, a ring flash solve most cases, but it has a very particular look.



          Here are some macro photos where you can see the light source is not a ring flash.
          They are using lateral diffused light.





          https://blazepress.com/2015/01/magical-macro-photography-bugs-vadim-trunov/



          This one has the light above the bug (Cenital-ish)





          https://guttikar.com/photography-news/macro-photography-tip-using-normal-lens-turned-around/



          So, a normal radio trigger and an external Speedlight (probably with a softbox, even a small one) could be what you need.





          But answering your question




          1. Will it fit my lens?


          2. Does it have enough power if I need to lower the aperture to have better Depth of field?



          3. Can you change the power output?




          1. Real flash or Continuous light.


          2. Bulkiness.


          3. Do you want to use it later, for portrait photography?





          For macro photography, you do not need much power. So any led based light will do at a basic level.



          Point 1 is pretty obvious.



          Point 2 and 3 are the ones that will give you flexibility.



          The rest is ok to consider.







          share|improve this answer














          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer








          edited 9 hours ago

























          answered 10 hours ago









          RafaelRafael

          14.1k12244




          14.1k12244

























              6














              If you want a true ring flash, depending on your kind of macrophotography:




              • Still objects, plenty of time: you can work in manual, do test short... about any flash will do. No need for much power at close range.

              • Shooting outdoors, handheld, moving objects (bugs, etc...): something that is compatible with the camera TTL exposure will allow you to shoot using the camera auto modes.


              If you do very close shots, there are also circular LED lights that aren't technically flashes but are much less expensive and can do the job (Canon has a macro lens where such LED are built-in).



              Being able to use only one half of the device for side lighting is a useful feature (full ring flash tends to produce flat, shadow-less images).






              share|improve this answer


























              • Why would camera TTL be a deciding factor? Isn't it generally the case with macro that a lot of parameters are under control and the light is not usually rapidly changing?

                – mattdm
                22 hours ago






              • 2





                Depends on the kind of macro you do. Spiders and butterflies are rarely under my control, as are the leaves around them when there is some wind. No time for lengthy setup and test shots (this said, for this kind of macro I prefer the natural light).

                – xenoid
                20 hours ago











              • That certainly makes sense for those situations — maybe put it in the answer?

                – mattdm
                18 hours ago











              • @mattdm Edited.

                – xenoid
                18 hours ago
















              6














              If you want a true ring flash, depending on your kind of macrophotography:




              • Still objects, plenty of time: you can work in manual, do test short... about any flash will do. No need for much power at close range.

              • Shooting outdoors, handheld, moving objects (bugs, etc...): something that is compatible with the camera TTL exposure will allow you to shoot using the camera auto modes.


              If you do very close shots, there are also circular LED lights that aren't technically flashes but are much less expensive and can do the job (Canon has a macro lens where such LED are built-in).



              Being able to use only one half of the device for side lighting is a useful feature (full ring flash tends to produce flat, shadow-less images).






              share|improve this answer


























              • Why would camera TTL be a deciding factor? Isn't it generally the case with macro that a lot of parameters are under control and the light is not usually rapidly changing?

                – mattdm
                22 hours ago






              • 2





                Depends on the kind of macro you do. Spiders and butterflies are rarely under my control, as are the leaves around them when there is some wind. No time for lengthy setup and test shots (this said, for this kind of macro I prefer the natural light).

                – xenoid
                20 hours ago











              • That certainly makes sense for those situations — maybe put it in the answer?

                – mattdm
                18 hours ago











              • @mattdm Edited.

                – xenoid
                18 hours ago














              6












              6








              6







              If you want a true ring flash, depending on your kind of macrophotography:




              • Still objects, plenty of time: you can work in manual, do test short... about any flash will do. No need for much power at close range.

              • Shooting outdoors, handheld, moving objects (bugs, etc...): something that is compatible with the camera TTL exposure will allow you to shoot using the camera auto modes.


              If you do very close shots, there are also circular LED lights that aren't technically flashes but are much less expensive and can do the job (Canon has a macro lens where such LED are built-in).



              Being able to use only one half of the device for side lighting is a useful feature (full ring flash tends to produce flat, shadow-less images).






              share|improve this answer















              If you want a true ring flash, depending on your kind of macrophotography:




              • Still objects, plenty of time: you can work in manual, do test short... about any flash will do. No need for much power at close range.

              • Shooting outdoors, handheld, moving objects (bugs, etc...): something that is compatible with the camera TTL exposure will allow you to shoot using the camera auto modes.


              If you do very close shots, there are also circular LED lights that aren't technically flashes but are much less expensive and can do the job (Canon has a macro lens where such LED are built-in).



              Being able to use only one half of the device for side lighting is a useful feature (full ring flash tends to produce flat, shadow-less images).







              share|improve this answer














              share|improve this answer



              share|improve this answer








              edited 18 hours ago

























              answered 22 hours ago









              xenoidxenoid

              4,0961519




              4,0961519













              • Why would camera TTL be a deciding factor? Isn't it generally the case with macro that a lot of parameters are under control and the light is not usually rapidly changing?

                – mattdm
                22 hours ago






              • 2





                Depends on the kind of macro you do. Spiders and butterflies are rarely under my control, as are the leaves around them when there is some wind. No time for lengthy setup and test shots (this said, for this kind of macro I prefer the natural light).

                – xenoid
                20 hours ago











              • That certainly makes sense for those situations — maybe put it in the answer?

                – mattdm
                18 hours ago











              • @mattdm Edited.

                – xenoid
                18 hours ago



















              • Why would camera TTL be a deciding factor? Isn't it generally the case with macro that a lot of parameters are under control and the light is not usually rapidly changing?

                – mattdm
                22 hours ago






              • 2





                Depends on the kind of macro you do. Spiders and butterflies are rarely under my control, as are the leaves around them when there is some wind. No time for lengthy setup and test shots (this said, for this kind of macro I prefer the natural light).

                – xenoid
                20 hours ago











              • That certainly makes sense for those situations — maybe put it in the answer?

                – mattdm
                18 hours ago











              • @mattdm Edited.

                – xenoid
                18 hours ago

















              Why would camera TTL be a deciding factor? Isn't it generally the case with macro that a lot of parameters are under control and the light is not usually rapidly changing?

              – mattdm
              22 hours ago





              Why would camera TTL be a deciding factor? Isn't it generally the case with macro that a lot of parameters are under control and the light is not usually rapidly changing?

              – mattdm
              22 hours ago




              2




              2





              Depends on the kind of macro you do. Spiders and butterflies are rarely under my control, as are the leaves around them when there is some wind. No time for lengthy setup and test shots (this said, for this kind of macro I prefer the natural light).

              – xenoid
              20 hours ago





              Depends on the kind of macro you do. Spiders and butterflies are rarely under my control, as are the leaves around them when there is some wind. No time for lengthy setup and test shots (this said, for this kind of macro I prefer the natural light).

              – xenoid
              20 hours ago













              That certainly makes sense for those situations — maybe put it in the answer?

              – mattdm
              18 hours ago





              That certainly makes sense for those situations — maybe put it in the answer?

              – mattdm
              18 hours ago













              @mattdm Edited.

              – xenoid
              18 hours ago





              @mattdm Edited.

              – xenoid
              18 hours ago











              3














              Especially in case you are considering a legacy device, especially if non-TTL, check how low in power it can go.



              One example of a device hard to use nowadays is the Soligor AR-20 not infrequently found on the used market - this is a computer (external photocell) ring flash which is only specified for 20cm and more subject distance, and is designed to serve at either f/8 or f/16 at ISO 100.



              Some DSLRs/DSLMs do not even have ISO 100 anymore, and f/8 leaves you terribly little maneuvering space if you need to get closer or need to tone down a stop or two - you easily end up with your iso cranked all the way down, your aperture at f/22 (great DoF but you are in deep in diffraction territory here ... and when have you last cleaned your sensor? :) ), and still overexposing....






              share|improve this answer
























              • I’m guessing Soligor never created some ND attachments for their not-too-flexible flash?

                – Hueco
                16 hours ago











              • An ND attachment would be consummately pointless with a computer flash :)

                – rackandboneman
                14 hours ago











              • I’m unfamiliar with them. Will have to look it up!

                – Hueco
                13 hours ago






              • 1





                Computer flash (aka, even more incorrectly, thyristor flash): There is a photocell on the flash head itself, that will stop the flash output as soon as it got sufficient light reflected back into it to expose at an aperture and iso selectable (often not independently) on the flash unit. Like TTL, but more potential for metering error in complex setups, more potential for user error, no post-sync communication with camera needed at all. Most 1970s flashes work that way, so do most non-dedicated 1980s/1990s flashes (some dedicated ones can do both, TTL and comp.).

                – rackandboneman
                11 hours ago


















              3














              Especially in case you are considering a legacy device, especially if non-TTL, check how low in power it can go.



              One example of a device hard to use nowadays is the Soligor AR-20 not infrequently found on the used market - this is a computer (external photocell) ring flash which is only specified for 20cm and more subject distance, and is designed to serve at either f/8 or f/16 at ISO 100.



              Some DSLRs/DSLMs do not even have ISO 100 anymore, and f/8 leaves you terribly little maneuvering space if you need to get closer or need to tone down a stop or two - you easily end up with your iso cranked all the way down, your aperture at f/22 (great DoF but you are in deep in diffraction territory here ... and when have you last cleaned your sensor? :) ), and still overexposing....






              share|improve this answer
























              • I’m guessing Soligor never created some ND attachments for their not-too-flexible flash?

                – Hueco
                16 hours ago











              • An ND attachment would be consummately pointless with a computer flash :)

                – rackandboneman
                14 hours ago











              • I’m unfamiliar with them. Will have to look it up!

                – Hueco
                13 hours ago






              • 1





                Computer flash (aka, even more incorrectly, thyristor flash): There is a photocell on the flash head itself, that will stop the flash output as soon as it got sufficient light reflected back into it to expose at an aperture and iso selectable (often not independently) on the flash unit. Like TTL, but more potential for metering error in complex setups, more potential for user error, no post-sync communication with camera needed at all. Most 1970s flashes work that way, so do most non-dedicated 1980s/1990s flashes (some dedicated ones can do both, TTL and comp.).

                – rackandboneman
                11 hours ago
















              3












              3








              3







              Especially in case you are considering a legacy device, especially if non-TTL, check how low in power it can go.



              One example of a device hard to use nowadays is the Soligor AR-20 not infrequently found on the used market - this is a computer (external photocell) ring flash which is only specified for 20cm and more subject distance, and is designed to serve at either f/8 or f/16 at ISO 100.



              Some DSLRs/DSLMs do not even have ISO 100 anymore, and f/8 leaves you terribly little maneuvering space if you need to get closer or need to tone down a stop or two - you easily end up with your iso cranked all the way down, your aperture at f/22 (great DoF but you are in deep in diffraction territory here ... and when have you last cleaned your sensor? :) ), and still overexposing....






              share|improve this answer













              Especially in case you are considering a legacy device, especially if non-TTL, check how low in power it can go.



              One example of a device hard to use nowadays is the Soligor AR-20 not infrequently found on the used market - this is a computer (external photocell) ring flash which is only specified for 20cm and more subject distance, and is designed to serve at either f/8 or f/16 at ISO 100.



              Some DSLRs/DSLMs do not even have ISO 100 anymore, and f/8 leaves you terribly little maneuvering space if you need to get closer or need to tone down a stop or two - you easily end up with your iso cranked all the way down, your aperture at f/22 (great DoF but you are in deep in diffraction territory here ... and when have you last cleaned your sensor? :) ), and still overexposing....







              share|improve this answer












              share|improve this answer



              share|improve this answer










              answered 20 hours ago









              rackandbonemanrackandboneman

              2,957817




              2,957817













              • I’m guessing Soligor never created some ND attachments for their not-too-flexible flash?

                – Hueco
                16 hours ago











              • An ND attachment would be consummately pointless with a computer flash :)

                – rackandboneman
                14 hours ago











              • I’m unfamiliar with them. Will have to look it up!

                – Hueco
                13 hours ago






              • 1





                Computer flash (aka, even more incorrectly, thyristor flash): There is a photocell on the flash head itself, that will stop the flash output as soon as it got sufficient light reflected back into it to expose at an aperture and iso selectable (often not independently) on the flash unit. Like TTL, but more potential for metering error in complex setups, more potential for user error, no post-sync communication with camera needed at all. Most 1970s flashes work that way, so do most non-dedicated 1980s/1990s flashes (some dedicated ones can do both, TTL and comp.).

                – rackandboneman
                11 hours ago





















              • I’m guessing Soligor never created some ND attachments for their not-too-flexible flash?

                – Hueco
                16 hours ago











              • An ND attachment would be consummately pointless with a computer flash :)

                – rackandboneman
                14 hours ago











              • I’m unfamiliar with them. Will have to look it up!

                – Hueco
                13 hours ago






              • 1





                Computer flash (aka, even more incorrectly, thyristor flash): There is a photocell on the flash head itself, that will stop the flash output as soon as it got sufficient light reflected back into it to expose at an aperture and iso selectable (often not independently) on the flash unit. Like TTL, but more potential for metering error in complex setups, more potential for user error, no post-sync communication with camera needed at all. Most 1970s flashes work that way, so do most non-dedicated 1980s/1990s flashes (some dedicated ones can do both, TTL and comp.).

                – rackandboneman
                11 hours ago



















              I’m guessing Soligor never created some ND attachments for their not-too-flexible flash?

              – Hueco
              16 hours ago





              I’m guessing Soligor never created some ND attachments for their not-too-flexible flash?

              – Hueco
              16 hours ago













              An ND attachment would be consummately pointless with a computer flash :)

              – rackandboneman
              14 hours ago





              An ND attachment would be consummately pointless with a computer flash :)

              – rackandboneman
              14 hours ago













              I’m unfamiliar with them. Will have to look it up!

              – Hueco
              13 hours ago





              I’m unfamiliar with them. Will have to look it up!

              – Hueco
              13 hours ago




              1




              1





              Computer flash (aka, even more incorrectly, thyristor flash): There is a photocell on the flash head itself, that will stop the flash output as soon as it got sufficient light reflected back into it to expose at an aperture and iso selectable (often not independently) on the flash unit. Like TTL, but more potential for metering error in complex setups, more potential for user error, no post-sync communication with camera needed at all. Most 1970s flashes work that way, so do most non-dedicated 1980s/1990s flashes (some dedicated ones can do both, TTL and comp.).

              – rackandboneman
              11 hours ago







              Computer flash (aka, even more incorrectly, thyristor flash): There is a photocell on the flash head itself, that will stop the flash output as soon as it got sufficient light reflected back into it to expose at an aperture and iso selectable (often not independently) on the flash unit. Like TTL, but more potential for metering error in complex setups, more potential for user error, no post-sync communication with camera needed at all. Most 1970s flashes work that way, so do most non-dedicated 1980s/1990s flashes (some dedicated ones can do both, TTL and comp.).

              – rackandboneman
              11 hours ago













              2














              There are some cheap and cheerful ring flash adaptors if you've got an external flash. They work surprisingly well for close range considering they're basically just light guides, thought the one I have doesn't deliver as much light at the bottom as at the top/sides and needed a little modification to fit nicely. This isn't much of an issue if you're shooting landscape.



              Because they're dumb light guides, the TTL in your flash functions as it normally would.



              The only shot I've got to hand taken with it has blown highlights and was taken at annoyingly high ISO, which I forgot to change after shooting at dusk with a long lens. It was also cropped from a resized image I was using as a desktop background. But here it is anyway:



              enter image description here






              share|improve this answer




























                2














                There are some cheap and cheerful ring flash adaptors if you've got an external flash. They work surprisingly well for close range considering they're basically just light guides, thought the one I have doesn't deliver as much light at the bottom as at the top/sides and needed a little modification to fit nicely. This isn't much of an issue if you're shooting landscape.



                Because they're dumb light guides, the TTL in your flash functions as it normally would.



                The only shot I've got to hand taken with it has blown highlights and was taken at annoyingly high ISO, which I forgot to change after shooting at dusk with a long lens. It was also cropped from a resized image I was using as a desktop background. But here it is anyway:



                enter image description here






                share|improve this answer


























                  2












                  2








                  2







                  There are some cheap and cheerful ring flash adaptors if you've got an external flash. They work surprisingly well for close range considering they're basically just light guides, thought the one I have doesn't deliver as much light at the bottom as at the top/sides and needed a little modification to fit nicely. This isn't much of an issue if you're shooting landscape.



                  Because they're dumb light guides, the TTL in your flash functions as it normally would.



                  The only shot I've got to hand taken with it has blown highlights and was taken at annoyingly high ISO, which I forgot to change after shooting at dusk with a long lens. It was also cropped from a resized image I was using as a desktop background. But here it is anyway:



                  enter image description here






                  share|improve this answer













                  There are some cheap and cheerful ring flash adaptors if you've got an external flash. They work surprisingly well for close range considering they're basically just light guides, thought the one I have doesn't deliver as much light at the bottom as at the top/sides and needed a little modification to fit nicely. This isn't much of an issue if you're shooting landscape.



                  Because they're dumb light guides, the TTL in your flash functions as it normally would.



                  The only shot I've got to hand taken with it has blown highlights and was taken at annoyingly high ISO, which I forgot to change after shooting at dusk with a long lens. It was also cropped from a resized image I was using as a desktop background. But here it is anyway:



                  enter image description here







                  share|improve this answer












                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer










                  answered 15 hours ago









                  Chris HChris H

                  3,27511014




                  3,27511014






























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