Continuity on hot/neutral at dead outlet
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
I have an outlet that has stopped working.
When it used to work I previously labeled which circuit it was on at the breaker. I'm rather certain I know which breaker supplies it. It also supplies other lights, which continue to work.
Turned off breaker, removed outlet from wall and disconnected from wires. Powered on breaker, and confirm with multimeter no AC measured on bare wires at outlet. (Proving that this is not a faulty outlet.)
Have a continuity tester (part of a tone generator). I am getting continuity across hot and neutral on these wires.
(Edit: also getting continuity between neutral and ground wire, as well. 20 ohms hot/neutral, 1 ohm neutral/ground, 20 ohms hot/ground. WTF??) What does this imply? How could I have done this?
I'm still trying to use the tone generator to trace where the wires feeding this outlet come from, but the continuity is making the signal very weak.
electrical
asked Nov 25 at 23:17
Phrogz
3831620
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
I have an outlet that has stopped working.
When it used to work I previously labeled which circuit it was on at the breaker. I'm rather certain I know which breaker supplies it. It also supplies other lights, which continue to work.
Turned off breaker, removed outlet from wall and disconnected from wires. Powered on breaker, and confirm with multimeter no AC measured on bare wires at outlet. (Proving that this is not a faulty outlet.)
Have a continuity tester (part of a tone generator). I am getting continuity across hot and neutral on these wires.
(Edit: also getting continuity between neutral and ground wire, as well. 20 ohms hot/neutral, 1 ohm neutral/ground, 20 ohms hot/ground. WTF??) What does this imply? How could I have done this?
I'm still trying to use the tone generator to trace where the wires feeding this outlet come from, but the continuity is making the signal very weak.
electrical
asked Nov 25 at 23:17
Phrogz
3831620
4
1 ohm neutral <---> ground is normal; 20 ohms Hot <--> neutral & ground sounds like you are detecting some other device in the circuit.
– manassehkatz
Nov 25 at 23:48
1
Is there anything plugged into the circuit? Unscrew all the lightbulbs on it and unplug everything attached to receptacles on it, and see if you still get continuity
– ThreePhaseEel
Nov 26 at 1:52
1
Thanks @manassehkatz for encouraging me to disconnect everything else until I found the problem (see my answer).
– Phrogz
Nov 26 at 3:00
1
Thanks, too, to @ThreePhaseEel.
– Phrogz
Nov 26 at 3:00
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
I have an outlet that has stopped working.
When it used to work I previously labeled which circuit it was on at the breaker. I'm rather certain I know which breaker supplies it. It also supplies other lights, which continue to work.
Turned off breaker, removed outlet from wall and disconnected from wires. Powered on breaker, and confirm with multimeter no AC measured on bare wires at outlet. (Proving that this is not a faulty outlet.)
Have a continuity tester (part of a tone generator). I am getting continuity across hot and neutral on these wires.
(Edit: also getting continuity between neutral and ground wire, as well. 20 ohms hot/neutral, 1 ohm neutral/ground, 20 ohms hot/ground. WTF??) What does this imply? How could I have done this?
I'm still trying to use the tone generator to trace where the wires feeding this outlet come from, but the continuity is making the signal very weak.
electrical
asked Nov 25 at 23:17
Phrogz
3831620
I have an outlet that has stopped working.
When it used to work I previously labeled which circuit it was on at the breaker. I'm rather certain I know which breaker supplies it. It also supplies other lights, which continue to work.
Turned off breaker, removed outlet from wall and disconnected from wires. Powered on breaker, and confirm with multimeter no AC measured on bare wires at outlet. (Proving that this is not a faulty outlet.)
Have a continuity tester (part of a tone generator). I am getting continuity across hot and neutral on these wires.
(Edit: also getting continuity between neutral and ground wire, as well. 20 ohms hot/neutral, 1 ohm neutral/ground, 20 ohms hot/ground. WTF??) What does this imply? How could I have done this?
I'm still trying to use the tone generator to trace where the wires feeding this outlet come from, but the continuity is making the signal very weak.
electrical
electrical
asked Nov 25 at 23:17
Phrogz
3831620
asked Nov 25 at 23:17
Phrogz
3831620
edited Nov 25 at 23:39
asked Nov 25 at 23:17
Phrogz
3831620
asked Nov 25 at 23:17
Phrogz
3831620
asked Nov 25 at 23:17
Phrogz
3831620
3831620
4
1 ohm neutral <---> ground is normal; 20 ohms Hot <--> neutral & ground sounds like you are detecting some other device in the circuit.
– manassehkatz
Nov 25 at 23:48
1
Is there anything plugged into the circuit? Unscrew all the lightbulbs on it and unplug everything attached to receptacles on it, and see if you still get continuity
– ThreePhaseEel
Nov 26 at 1:52
1
Thanks @manassehkatz for encouraging me to disconnect everything else until I found the problem (see my answer).
– Phrogz
Nov 26 at 3:00
1
Thanks, too, to @ThreePhaseEel.
– Phrogz
Nov 26 at 3:00
add a comment |
4
1 ohm neutral <---> ground is normal; 20 ohms Hot <--> neutral & ground sounds like you are detecting some other device in the circuit.
– manassehkatz
Nov 25 at 23:48
1
Is there anything plugged into the circuit? Unscrew all the lightbulbs on it and unplug everything attached to receptacles on it, and see if you still get continuity
– ThreePhaseEel
Nov 26 at 1:52
1
Thanks @manassehkatz for encouraging me to disconnect everything else until I found the problem (see my answer).
– Phrogz
Nov 26 at 3:00
1
Thanks, too, to @ThreePhaseEel.
– Phrogz
Nov 26 at 3:00
4
4
1 ohm neutral <---> ground is normal; 20 ohms Hot <--> neutral & ground sounds like you are detecting some other device in the circuit.
– manassehkatz
Nov 25 at 23:48
1 ohm neutral <---> ground is normal; 20 ohms Hot <--> neutral & ground sounds like you are detecting some other device in the circuit.
– manassehkatz
Nov 25 at 23:48
1
1
Is there anything plugged into the circuit? Unscrew all the lightbulbs on it and unplug everything attached to receptacles on it, and see if you still get continuity
– ThreePhaseEel
Nov 26 at 1:52
Is there anything plugged into the circuit? Unscrew all the lightbulbs on it and unplug everything attached to receptacles on it, and see if you still get continuity
– ThreePhaseEel
Nov 26 at 1:52
1
1
Thanks @manassehkatz for encouraging me to disconnect everything else until I found the problem (see my answer).
– Phrogz
Nov 26 at 3:00
Thanks @manassehkatz for encouraging me to disconnect everything else until I found the problem (see my answer).
– Phrogz
Nov 26 at 3:00
1
1
Thanks, too, to @ThreePhaseEel.
– Phrogz
Nov 26 at 3:00
Thanks, too, to @ThreePhaseEel.
– Phrogz
Nov 26 at 3:00
add a comment |
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
up vote
2
down vote
accepted
Thanks to @manassehkatz I went to all light switches on the same circuit and disconnected them. The outlet retained continuity.
I then traced the wire through the crawlspace to a wall with another light switch that I did not realize was on the same circuit. Opening that box and removing the switches I found that the line to the outlet comes from that box, and I somehow failed to reconnect power to the outlet when I was changing out my dimmer switches. The neutral was connected, but the hot line to the outlet was just loose in the back of the box. (Yikes.)
I'm not sure what connection it was making when everything was crammed into the box. I'm guessing it was loosely connecting to one of the free ground wires. Once I removed the switches from the box continuity disappeared. And, once I connected the wires properly, the outlet works again.
answered Nov 26 at 2:59
Phrogz
3831620
1
The lose hot wire was probably touching the metal box, giving continuity to ground and thus to neutral. 20 ohms because it wasn’t making good contact.
– DoxyLover
Nov 26 at 4:47
add a comment |
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
2
down vote
accepted
Thanks to @manassehkatz I went to all light switches on the same circuit and disconnected them. The outlet retained continuity.
I then traced the wire through the crawlspace to a wall with another light switch that I did not realize was on the same circuit. Opening that box and removing the switches I found that the line to the outlet comes from that box, and I somehow failed to reconnect power to the outlet when I was changing out my dimmer switches. The neutral was connected, but the hot line to the outlet was just loose in the back of the box. (Yikes.)
I'm not sure what connection it was making when everything was crammed into the box. I'm guessing it was loosely connecting to one of the free ground wires. Once I removed the switches from the box continuity disappeared. And, once I connected the wires properly, the outlet works again.
answered Nov 26 at 2:59
Phrogz
3831620
1
The lose hot wire was probably touching the metal box, giving continuity to ground and thus to neutral. 20 ohms because it wasn’t making good contact.
– DoxyLover
Nov 26 at 4:47
add a comment |
up vote
2
down vote
accepted
Thanks to @manassehkatz I went to all light switches on the same circuit and disconnected them. The outlet retained continuity.
I then traced the wire through the crawlspace to a wall with another light switch that I did not realize was on the same circuit. Opening that box and removing the switches I found that the line to the outlet comes from that box, and I somehow failed to reconnect power to the outlet when I was changing out my dimmer switches. The neutral was connected, but the hot line to the outlet was just loose in the back of the box. (Yikes.)
I'm not sure what connection it was making when everything was crammed into the box. I'm guessing it was loosely connecting to one of the free ground wires. Once I removed the switches from the box continuity disappeared. And, once I connected the wires properly, the outlet works again.
answered Nov 26 at 2:59
Phrogz
3831620
1
The lose hot wire was probably touching the metal box, giving continuity to ground and thus to neutral. 20 ohms because it wasn’t making good contact.
– DoxyLover
Nov 26 at 4:47
add a comment |
up vote
2
down vote
accepted
up vote
2
down vote
accepted
Thanks to @manassehkatz I went to all light switches on the same circuit and disconnected them. The outlet retained continuity.
I then traced the wire through the crawlspace to a wall with another light switch that I did not realize was on the same circuit. Opening that box and removing the switches I found that the line to the outlet comes from that box, and I somehow failed to reconnect power to the outlet when I was changing out my dimmer switches. The neutral was connected, but the hot line to the outlet was just loose in the back of the box. (Yikes.)
I'm not sure what connection it was making when everything was crammed into the box. I'm guessing it was loosely connecting to one of the free ground wires. Once I removed the switches from the box continuity disappeared. And, once I connected the wires properly, the outlet works again.
answered Nov 26 at 2:59
Phrogz
3831620
Thanks to @manassehkatz I went to all light switches on the same circuit and disconnected them. The outlet retained continuity.
I then traced the wire through the crawlspace to a wall with another light switch that I did not realize was on the same circuit. Opening that box and removing the switches I found that the line to the outlet comes from that box, and I somehow failed to reconnect power to the outlet when I was changing out my dimmer switches. The neutral was connected, but the hot line to the outlet was just loose in the back of the box. (Yikes.)
I'm not sure what connection it was making when everything was crammed into the box. I'm guessing it was loosely connecting to one of the free ground wires. Once I removed the switches from the box continuity disappeared. And, once I connected the wires properly, the outlet works again.
answered Nov 26 at 2:59
Phrogz
3831620
answered Nov 26 at 2:59
Phrogz
3831620
answered Nov 26 at 2:59
Phrogz
3831620
answered Nov 26 at 2:59
Phrogz
3831620
3831620
1
The lose hot wire was probably touching the metal box, giving continuity to ground and thus to neutral. 20 ohms because it wasn’t making good contact.
– DoxyLover
Nov 26 at 4:47
add a comment |
1
The lose hot wire was probably touching the metal box, giving continuity to ground and thus to neutral. 20 ohms because it wasn’t making good contact.
– DoxyLover
Nov 26 at 4:47
1
1
The lose hot wire was probably touching the metal box, giving continuity to ground and thus to neutral. 20 ohms because it wasn’t making good contact.
– DoxyLover
Nov 26 at 4:47
The lose hot wire was probably touching the metal box, giving continuity to ground and thus to neutral. 20 ohms because it wasn’t making good contact.
– DoxyLover
Nov 26 at 4:47
add a comment |
Thanks for contributing an answer to Home Improvement Stack Exchange!
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Some of your past answers have not been well-received, and you're in danger of being blocked from answering.
Please pay close attention to the following guidance:
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f151287%2fcontinuity-on-hot-neutral-at-dead-outlet%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
4
1 ohm neutral <---> ground is normal; 20 ohms Hot <--> neutral & ground sounds like you are detecting some other device in the circuit.
– manassehkatz
Nov 25 at 23:48
1
Is there anything plugged into the circuit? Unscrew all the lightbulbs on it and unplug everything attached to receptacles on it, and see if you still get continuity
– ThreePhaseEel
Nov 26 at 1:52
1
Thanks @manassehkatz for encouraging me to disconnect everything else until I found the problem (see my answer).
– Phrogz
Nov 26 at 3:00
1
Thanks, too, to @ThreePhaseEel.
– Phrogz
Nov 26 at 3:00