How To Repair Ripped Off Solder Pad On PCB
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I was trying to flash OpenWrt onto my BT HH5 wireless router and it involves soldering wires to very tiny balls of solder, which in the guides I've been following are referred to as pads. I've tried putting a small amount of solder in the little caveat hole but it doesn't stay in place. I known this would have been produced in a factory by a machine but is there any way I can repair the broken pad?
UPDATE
I've put a 1p coin in the corner for a scale comparison to show how small the pads really are. The blue circles represent the pad I have been referring to.
As there is a hole wear the pad was, is there nothing I can use to refill the hole? I knows this sounds stupid but is there a conductive glue that the solder can stick to?
I've been using a battery powered soldering iron, but should I be using a temperature controlled iron with a low temperature and maybe using a smaller head on the iron?
N.B I only usually solder leads for audio equipment so moving down to micro PCB components isn't too much for my hand in terms of keeping it steady, but the fact that I think I need to invest a decent soldering station possibly?
pcb soldering
edited Apr 3 at 21:48
SamGibson
11.7k41739
asked Apr 2 at 7:51
willowen100willowen100
514
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add a comment |
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I was trying to flash OpenWrt onto my BT HH5 wireless router and it involves soldering wires to very tiny balls of solder, which in the guides I've been following are referred to as pads. I've tried putting a small amount of solder in the little caveat hole but it doesn't stay in place. I known this would have been produced in a factory by a machine but is there any way I can repair the broken pad?
UPDATE
I've put a 1p coin in the corner for a scale comparison to show how small the pads really are. The blue circles represent the pad I have been referring to.
As there is a hole wear the pad was, is there nothing I can use to refill the hole? I knows this sounds stupid but is there a conductive glue that the solder can stick to?
I've been using a battery powered soldering iron, but should I be using a temperature controlled iron with a low temperature and maybe using a smaller head on the iron?
N.B I only usually solder leads for audio equipment so moving down to micro PCB components isn't too much for my hand in terms of keeping it steady, but the fact that I think I need to invest a decent soldering station possibly?
pcb soldering
edited Apr 3 at 21:48
SamGibson
11.7k41739
asked Apr 2 at 7:51
willowen100willowen100
514
New contributor
willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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Is the missing pad a via ? In that case, what's on the other side to solder upon? Else, this means that some track used to go to that pad, so you can connect on those. You should use some glue when you have checked your work is done and functional to avoid similar problem in the future.
$endgroup$
– xryl669
Apr 2 at 13:59
$begingroup$
I remember during my first ever experiment with soldering small pitch components on newly manufactured PCBs. I burned out pad an routing path due to high temperature setting. I always keep soldering iron temperature settings within 200C since then.
$endgroup$
– Prasan Dutt
Apr 2 at 14:00
add a comment |
$begingroup$
I was trying to flash OpenWrt onto my BT HH5 wireless router and it involves soldering wires to very tiny balls of solder, which in the guides I've been following are referred to as pads. I've tried putting a small amount of solder in the little caveat hole but it doesn't stay in place. I known this would have been produced in a factory by a machine but is there any way I can repair the broken pad?
UPDATE
I've put a 1p coin in the corner for a scale comparison to show how small the pads really are. The blue circles represent the pad I have been referring to.
As there is a hole wear the pad was, is there nothing I can use to refill the hole? I knows this sounds stupid but is there a conductive glue that the solder can stick to?
I've been using a battery powered soldering iron, but should I be using a temperature controlled iron with a low temperature and maybe using a smaller head on the iron?
N.B I only usually solder leads for audio equipment so moving down to micro PCB components isn't too much for my hand in terms of keeping it steady, but the fact that I think I need to invest a decent soldering station possibly?
pcb soldering
edited Apr 3 at 21:48
SamGibson
11.7k41739
asked Apr 2 at 7:51
willowen100willowen100
514
New contributor
willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
$endgroup$
I was trying to flash OpenWrt onto my BT HH5 wireless router and it involves soldering wires to very tiny balls of solder, which in the guides I've been following are referred to as pads. I've tried putting a small amount of solder in the little caveat hole but it doesn't stay in place. I known this would have been produced in a factory by a machine but is there any way I can repair the broken pad?
UPDATE
I've put a 1p coin in the corner for a scale comparison to show how small the pads really are. The blue circles represent the pad I have been referring to.
As there is a hole wear the pad was, is there nothing I can use to refill the hole? I knows this sounds stupid but is there a conductive glue that the solder can stick to?
I've been using a battery powered soldering iron, but should I be using a temperature controlled iron with a low temperature and maybe using a smaller head on the iron?
N.B I only usually solder leads for audio equipment so moving down to micro PCB components isn't too much for my hand in terms of keeping it steady, but the fact that I think I need to invest a decent soldering station possibly?
pcb soldering
pcb soldering
edited Apr 3 at 21:48
SamGibson
11.7k41739
asked Apr 2 at 7:51
willowen100willowen100
514
New contributor
willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited Apr 3 at 21:48
SamGibson
11.7k41739
asked Apr 2 at 7:51
willowen100willowen100
514
New contributor
willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited Apr 3 at 21:48
SamGibson
11.7k41739
edited Apr 3 at 21:48
SamGibson
11.7k41739
edited Apr 3 at 21:48
SamGibson
11.7k41739
11.7k41739
asked Apr 2 at 7:51
willowen100willowen100
514
New contributor
willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked Apr 2 at 7:51
willowen100willowen100
514
asked Apr 2 at 7:51
willowen100willowen100
514
514
New contributor
willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
willowen100 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
$begingroup$
Is the missing pad a via ? In that case, what's on the other side to solder upon? Else, this means that some track used to go to that pad, so you can connect on those. You should use some glue when you have checked your work is done and functional to avoid similar problem in the future.
$endgroup$
– xryl669
Apr 2 at 13:59
$begingroup$
I remember during my first ever experiment with soldering small pitch components on newly manufactured PCBs. I burned out pad an routing path due to high temperature setting. I always keep soldering iron temperature settings within 200C since then.
$endgroup$
– Prasan Dutt
Apr 2 at 14:00
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Is the missing pad a via ? In that case, what's on the other side to solder upon? Else, this means that some track used to go to that pad, so you can connect on those. You should use some glue when you have checked your work is done and functional to avoid similar problem in the future.
$endgroup$
– xryl669
Apr 2 at 13:59
$begingroup$
I remember during my first ever experiment with soldering small pitch components on newly manufactured PCBs. I burned out pad an routing path due to high temperature setting. I always keep soldering iron temperature settings within 200C since then.
$endgroup$
– Prasan Dutt
Apr 2 at 14:00
$begingroup$
Is the missing pad a via ? In that case, what's on the other side to solder upon? Else, this means that some track used to go to that pad, so you can connect on those. You should use some glue when you have checked your work is done and functional to avoid similar problem in the future.
$endgroup$
– xryl669
Apr 2 at 13:59
$begingroup$
Is the missing pad a via ? In that case, what's on the other side to solder upon? Else, this means that some track used to go to that pad, so you can connect on those. You should use some glue when you have checked your work is done and functional to avoid similar problem in the future.
$endgroup$
– xryl669
Apr 2 at 13:59
$begingroup$
I remember during my first ever experiment with soldering small pitch components on newly manufactured PCBs. I burned out pad an routing path due to high temperature setting. I always keep soldering iron temperature settings within 200C since then.
$endgroup$
– Prasan Dutt
Apr 2 at 14:00
$begingroup$
I remember during my first ever experiment with soldering small pitch components on newly manufactured PCBs. I burned out pad an routing path due to high temperature setting. I always keep soldering iron temperature settings within 200C since then.
$endgroup$
– Prasan Dutt
Apr 2 at 14:00
add a comment |
2 Answers
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votes
$begingroup$
One thing I have tried and works, but requires good precision is the following:
Drill small hole near the ripped pad and insert a piece of copper. Twist the ends of the copper so that they form 2 loops on both ends of the board. Then solder it to the track and on top of that solder any component that was there.
If the pcb has mask or paint, scrape them off. If it is a 4 board layer, the above technique is doable, but the piece of copper must be insulated so that it does not short-circuits the 2 mid layers.
Here are some pictures, in which we managed to fix the destroyed "via", but the technique is the same for destroyed pads.
answered Apr 2 at 8:06
thecethece
439212
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
It's hard to be sure with all the flux, but it looks an awful lot like that pad connected to the via just below it (circled); you can see the clearance in the surrounding plane where the track ran.
First thing to do is clean up the area with a cotton-bud dipped in IPA (or acetone, probably if you don't have any IPA to hand). Do it very carefully, as it'll be easy to snag one of the other pads with solder sticking up and rip that off too, especially if it's been overheated.
You should then be able to see evidence of the track going from the missing test-pad to the via (it'll probably look like a brown line).
If you decide to solder onto the via, you'll need to (with a round-bladed scalpel), scrape the green solder-resist off the top of the via, until you see bare copper. Then you can solder your wire to this.
Aside: It's a good idea, if you can, to solder to these pads etc. with very thin enamelled wire, which can be tacked down somewhere with hot glue, etc, and then solder the wires to your programmer onto those. You're much less likely to rip pads off.
I would caution against drilling the board, unless as an absolute last resort.
answered Apr 2 at 11:56
SiHaSiHa
1705
$endgroup$
add a comment |
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2 Answers
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2 Answers
2
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$begingroup$
One thing I have tried and works, but requires good precision is the following:
Drill small hole near the ripped pad and insert a piece of copper. Twist the ends of the copper so that they form 2 loops on both ends of the board. Then solder it to the track and on top of that solder any component that was there.
If the pcb has mask or paint, scrape them off. If it is a 4 board layer, the above technique is doable, but the piece of copper must be insulated so that it does not short-circuits the 2 mid layers.
Here are some pictures, in which we managed to fix the destroyed "via", but the technique is the same for destroyed pads.
answered Apr 2 at 8:06
thecethece
439212
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
One thing I have tried and works, but requires good precision is the following:
Drill small hole near the ripped pad and insert a piece of copper. Twist the ends of the copper so that they form 2 loops on both ends of the board. Then solder it to the track and on top of that solder any component that was there.
If the pcb has mask or paint, scrape them off. If it is a 4 board layer, the above technique is doable, but the piece of copper must be insulated so that it does not short-circuits the 2 mid layers.
Here are some pictures, in which we managed to fix the destroyed "via", but the technique is the same for destroyed pads.
answered Apr 2 at 8:06
thecethece
439212
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
One thing I have tried and works, but requires good precision is the following:
Drill small hole near the ripped pad and insert a piece of copper. Twist the ends of the copper so that they form 2 loops on both ends of the board. Then solder it to the track and on top of that solder any component that was there.
If the pcb has mask or paint, scrape them off. If it is a 4 board layer, the above technique is doable, but the piece of copper must be insulated so that it does not short-circuits the 2 mid layers.
Here are some pictures, in which we managed to fix the destroyed "via", but the technique is the same for destroyed pads.
answered Apr 2 at 8:06
thecethece
439212
$endgroup$
One thing I have tried and works, but requires good precision is the following:
Drill small hole near the ripped pad and insert a piece of copper. Twist the ends of the copper so that they form 2 loops on both ends of the board. Then solder it to the track and on top of that solder any component that was there.
If the pcb has mask or paint, scrape them off. If it is a 4 board layer, the above technique is doable, but the piece of copper must be insulated so that it does not short-circuits the 2 mid layers.
Here are some pictures, in which we managed to fix the destroyed "via", but the technique is the same for destroyed pads.
answered Apr 2 at 8:06
thecethece
439212
edited Apr 2 at 9:09
answered Apr 2 at 8:06
thecethece
439212
answered Apr 2 at 8:06
thecethece
439212
answered Apr 2 at 8:06
thecethece
439212
439212
add a comment |
add a comment |
$begingroup$
It's hard to be sure with all the flux, but it looks an awful lot like that pad connected to the via just below it (circled); you can see the clearance in the surrounding plane where the track ran.
First thing to do is clean up the area with a cotton-bud dipped in IPA (or acetone, probably if you don't have any IPA to hand). Do it very carefully, as it'll be easy to snag one of the other pads with solder sticking up and rip that off too, especially if it's been overheated.
You should then be able to see evidence of the track going from the missing test-pad to the via (it'll probably look like a brown line).
If you decide to solder onto the via, you'll need to (with a round-bladed scalpel), scrape the green solder-resist off the top of the via, until you see bare copper. Then you can solder your wire to this.
Aside: It's a good idea, if you can, to solder to these pads etc. with very thin enamelled wire, which can be tacked down somewhere with hot glue, etc, and then solder the wires to your programmer onto those. You're much less likely to rip pads off.
I would caution against drilling the board, unless as an absolute last resort.
answered Apr 2 at 11:56
SiHaSiHa
1705
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
It's hard to be sure with all the flux, but it looks an awful lot like that pad connected to the via just below it (circled); you can see the clearance in the surrounding plane where the track ran.
First thing to do is clean up the area with a cotton-bud dipped in IPA (or acetone, probably if you don't have any IPA to hand). Do it very carefully, as it'll be easy to snag one of the other pads with solder sticking up and rip that off too, especially if it's been overheated.
You should then be able to see evidence of the track going from the missing test-pad to the via (it'll probably look like a brown line).
If you decide to solder onto the via, you'll need to (with a round-bladed scalpel), scrape the green solder-resist off the top of the via, until you see bare copper. Then you can solder your wire to this.
Aside: It's a good idea, if you can, to solder to these pads etc. with very thin enamelled wire, which can be tacked down somewhere with hot glue, etc, and then solder the wires to your programmer onto those. You're much less likely to rip pads off.
I would caution against drilling the board, unless as an absolute last resort.
answered Apr 2 at 11:56
SiHaSiHa
1705
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
It's hard to be sure with all the flux, but it looks an awful lot like that pad connected to the via just below it (circled); you can see the clearance in the surrounding plane where the track ran.
First thing to do is clean up the area with a cotton-bud dipped in IPA (or acetone, probably if you don't have any IPA to hand). Do it very carefully, as it'll be easy to snag one of the other pads with solder sticking up and rip that off too, especially if it's been overheated.
You should then be able to see evidence of the track going from the missing test-pad to the via (it'll probably look like a brown line).
If you decide to solder onto the via, you'll need to (with a round-bladed scalpel), scrape the green solder-resist off the top of the via, until you see bare copper. Then you can solder your wire to this.
Aside: It's a good idea, if you can, to solder to these pads etc. with very thin enamelled wire, which can be tacked down somewhere with hot glue, etc, and then solder the wires to your programmer onto those. You're much less likely to rip pads off.
I would caution against drilling the board, unless as an absolute last resort.
answered Apr 2 at 11:56
SiHaSiHa
1705
$endgroup$
It's hard to be sure with all the flux, but it looks an awful lot like that pad connected to the via just below it (circled); you can see the clearance in the surrounding plane where the track ran.
First thing to do is clean up the area with a cotton-bud dipped in IPA (or acetone, probably if you don't have any IPA to hand). Do it very carefully, as it'll be easy to snag one of the other pads with solder sticking up and rip that off too, especially if it's been overheated.
You should then be able to see evidence of the track going from the missing test-pad to the via (it'll probably look like a brown line).
If you decide to solder onto the via, you'll need to (with a round-bladed scalpel), scrape the green solder-resist off the top of the via, until you see bare copper. Then you can solder your wire to this.
Aside: It's a good idea, if you can, to solder to these pads etc. with very thin enamelled wire, which can be tacked down somewhere with hot glue, etc, and then solder the wires to your programmer onto those. You're much less likely to rip pads off.
I would caution against drilling the board, unless as an absolute last resort.
answered Apr 2 at 11:56
SiHaSiHa
1705
edited Apr 3 at 14:40
answered Apr 2 at 11:56
SiHaSiHa
1705
answered Apr 2 at 11:56
SiHaSiHa
1705
answered Apr 2 at 11:56
SiHaSiHa
1705
1705
add a comment |
add a comment |
willowen100 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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$begingroup$
Is the missing pad a via ? In that case, what's on the other side to solder upon? Else, this means that some track used to go to that pad, so you can connect on those. You should use some glue when you have checked your work is done and functional to avoid similar problem in the future.
$endgroup$
– xryl669
Apr 2 at 13:59
$begingroup$
I remember during my first ever experiment with soldering small pitch components on newly manufactured PCBs. I burned out pad an routing path due to high temperature setting. I always keep soldering iron temperature settings within 200C since then.
$endgroup$
– Prasan Dutt
Apr 2 at 14:00