If I blow insulation everywhere in my attic except the door trap, will heat escape through it?
I want to blow insulation into my attic. The door into my attic is on the floor and made up of a large board which doesn't have hinges. I have to push the door up and slide it over in order to gain access to the attic. That means when I blow in insulation, I can't blow any in on the door or in the area that I will slide the door over to.
Will this gap in insulation cause major hot or cold air loss? Are there alternatives to this?
insulation attic
add a comment |
I want to blow insulation into my attic. The door into my attic is on the floor and made up of a large board which doesn't have hinges. I have to push the door up and slide it over in order to gain access to the attic. That means when I blow in insulation, I can't blow any in on the door or in the area that I will slide the door over to.
Will this gap in insulation cause major hot or cold air loss? Are there alternatives to this?
insulation attic
1
They make insulated covers for folding attic stair cases. You could use that basic design to make your own insulated "cap".
– JPhi1618
Mar 28 at 20:12
2
Consider using a different type of insulation on top of the door (i.e. fiberglass bats) in addition to your blown insulation elsewhere.
– Nate Strickland
Mar 28 at 20:14
add a comment |
I want to blow insulation into my attic. The door into my attic is on the floor and made up of a large board which doesn't have hinges. I have to push the door up and slide it over in order to gain access to the attic. That means when I blow in insulation, I can't blow any in on the door or in the area that I will slide the door over to.
Will this gap in insulation cause major hot or cold air loss? Are there alternatives to this?
insulation attic
I want to blow insulation into my attic. The door into my attic is on the floor and made up of a large board which doesn't have hinges. I have to push the door up and slide it over in order to gain access to the attic. That means when I blow in insulation, I can't blow any in on the door or in the area that I will slide the door over to.
Will this gap in insulation cause major hot or cold air loss? Are there alternatives to this?
insulation attic
insulation attic
asked Mar 28 at 20:10
Meyer DenneyMeyer Denney
15016
15016
1
They make insulated covers for folding attic stair cases. You could use that basic design to make your own insulated "cap".
– JPhi1618
Mar 28 at 20:12
2
Consider using a different type of insulation on top of the door (i.e. fiberglass bats) in addition to your blown insulation elsewhere.
– Nate Strickland
Mar 28 at 20:14
add a comment |
1
They make insulated covers for folding attic stair cases. You could use that basic design to make your own insulated "cap".
– JPhi1618
Mar 28 at 20:12
2
Consider using a different type of insulation on top of the door (i.e. fiberglass bats) in addition to your blown insulation elsewhere.
– Nate Strickland
Mar 28 at 20:14
1
1
They make insulated covers for folding attic stair cases. You could use that basic design to make your own insulated "cap".
– JPhi1618
Mar 28 at 20:12
They make insulated covers for folding attic stair cases. You could use that basic design to make your own insulated "cap".
– JPhi1618
Mar 28 at 20:12
2
2
Consider using a different type of insulation on top of the door (i.e. fiberglass bats) in addition to your blown insulation elsewhere.
– Nate Strickland
Mar 28 at 20:14
Consider using a different type of insulation on top of the door (i.e. fiberglass bats) in addition to your blown insulation elsewhere.
– Nate Strickland
Mar 28 at 20:14
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
You don't put blow in above the door. Use batts or cut several layers poly board insulation to mimic slightly less than your attic cover. 4-5 layers will give you good coverage.
This will not provide a perfect barrier but is the recommended way of handling attic openings.bb
1
This and some soft foam tape to seal the perimeter surface are a great solution.
– isherwood
Mar 28 at 20:55
1
I'd create a xps perimeter inside the attic to prevent the loose insulation from falling down. This will also help achieve the correct depth near the opening.
– Fresh Codemonger
Mar 28 at 22:42
@FreshCodemonger - that is always a good idea. The issue with the new blown in insulation is keeping it from dropping all over when going into attic.
– DMoore
Mar 28 at 22:51
@Stephen - I totally used this picture on purpose hoping someone would comment. I am in midwest and 1" is a most as we can get at store (application exactly the same for the answer - just more cutting/glueing) and I am in midwest where we are below 30 for 2-3 months.
– DMoore
Mar 29 at 16:45
add a comment |
Before you add insulation, consider air sealing your attic, meaning use a closed cell foam to seal penetrations in ceiling such as top plates, holes for electrical, lighting and plumbing. This will prevent air communication between the attic and the conditioned space something that just adding blown in insulation cannot do. If you are experiencing comfort issues in your home, are looking for energy saving or health benefits reach out to home performance professionals and have a blower door test preformed to determine the amount of air leakage your home has and get the best solution. If you're interested in this take a look at Corbett Lunsford and his youtube channel Home Performance.
But to answer your question build a wall around your attic access to prevent the blown in insulation from falling through, put a seal on the attic access frame (kinda like a door seal) and adhere bats of insulation to the door itself.
Here is a link for some air sealing tips. https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/56102/The-3-Rules-of-Air-Sealing
And here is one for why it's important http://energysmartohio.com/how_it_works/air-sealing/
New contributor
add a comment |
Yes, the energy loss from an uninsulated attic door is substantial. You can and should attach batts or rigid foam directly to the top of the door.
This article explains the energy impact of having an uninsulated attic door with an otherwise insulated attic:
https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/34932/Attic-Stairs-A-Mind-Blowing-Hole-in-Your-Building-Envelope
In example given in the article, "the amount of heat that flows through the 10 sf of attic stairs is the same as what flows through 380 sf of the insulated attic".
New contributor
add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
You don't put blow in above the door. Use batts or cut several layers poly board insulation to mimic slightly less than your attic cover. 4-5 layers will give you good coverage.
This will not provide a perfect barrier but is the recommended way of handling attic openings.bb
1
This and some soft foam tape to seal the perimeter surface are a great solution.
– isherwood
Mar 28 at 20:55
1
I'd create a xps perimeter inside the attic to prevent the loose insulation from falling down. This will also help achieve the correct depth near the opening.
– Fresh Codemonger
Mar 28 at 22:42
@FreshCodemonger - that is always a good idea. The issue with the new blown in insulation is keeping it from dropping all over when going into attic.
– DMoore
Mar 28 at 22:51
@Stephen - I totally used this picture on purpose hoping someone would comment. I am in midwest and 1" is a most as we can get at store (application exactly the same for the answer - just more cutting/glueing) and I am in midwest where we are below 30 for 2-3 months.
– DMoore
Mar 29 at 16:45
add a comment |
You don't put blow in above the door. Use batts or cut several layers poly board insulation to mimic slightly less than your attic cover. 4-5 layers will give you good coverage.
This will not provide a perfect barrier but is the recommended way of handling attic openings.bb
1
This and some soft foam tape to seal the perimeter surface are a great solution.
– isherwood
Mar 28 at 20:55
1
I'd create a xps perimeter inside the attic to prevent the loose insulation from falling down. This will also help achieve the correct depth near the opening.
– Fresh Codemonger
Mar 28 at 22:42
@FreshCodemonger - that is always a good idea. The issue with the new blown in insulation is keeping it from dropping all over when going into attic.
– DMoore
Mar 28 at 22:51
@Stephen - I totally used this picture on purpose hoping someone would comment. I am in midwest and 1" is a most as we can get at store (application exactly the same for the answer - just more cutting/glueing) and I am in midwest where we are below 30 for 2-3 months.
– DMoore
Mar 29 at 16:45
add a comment |
You don't put blow in above the door. Use batts or cut several layers poly board insulation to mimic slightly less than your attic cover. 4-5 layers will give you good coverage.
This will not provide a perfect barrier but is the recommended way of handling attic openings.bb
You don't put blow in above the door. Use batts or cut several layers poly board insulation to mimic slightly less than your attic cover. 4-5 layers will give you good coverage.
This will not provide a perfect barrier but is the recommended way of handling attic openings.bb
answered Mar 28 at 20:18
DMooreDMoore
29.2k1354122
29.2k1354122
1
This and some soft foam tape to seal the perimeter surface are a great solution.
– isherwood
Mar 28 at 20:55
1
I'd create a xps perimeter inside the attic to prevent the loose insulation from falling down. This will also help achieve the correct depth near the opening.
– Fresh Codemonger
Mar 28 at 22:42
@FreshCodemonger - that is always a good idea. The issue with the new blown in insulation is keeping it from dropping all over when going into attic.
– DMoore
Mar 28 at 22:51
@Stephen - I totally used this picture on purpose hoping someone would comment. I am in midwest and 1" is a most as we can get at store (application exactly the same for the answer - just more cutting/glueing) and I am in midwest where we are below 30 for 2-3 months.
– DMoore
Mar 29 at 16:45
add a comment |
1
This and some soft foam tape to seal the perimeter surface are a great solution.
– isherwood
Mar 28 at 20:55
1
I'd create a xps perimeter inside the attic to prevent the loose insulation from falling down. This will also help achieve the correct depth near the opening.
– Fresh Codemonger
Mar 28 at 22:42
@FreshCodemonger - that is always a good idea. The issue with the new blown in insulation is keeping it from dropping all over when going into attic.
– DMoore
Mar 28 at 22:51
@Stephen - I totally used this picture on purpose hoping someone would comment. I am in midwest and 1" is a most as we can get at store (application exactly the same for the answer - just more cutting/glueing) and I am in midwest where we are below 30 for 2-3 months.
– DMoore
Mar 29 at 16:45
1
1
This and some soft foam tape to seal the perimeter surface are a great solution.
– isherwood
Mar 28 at 20:55
This and some soft foam tape to seal the perimeter surface are a great solution.
– isherwood
Mar 28 at 20:55
1
1
I'd create a xps perimeter inside the attic to prevent the loose insulation from falling down. This will also help achieve the correct depth near the opening.
– Fresh Codemonger
Mar 28 at 22:42
I'd create a xps perimeter inside the attic to prevent the loose insulation from falling down. This will also help achieve the correct depth near the opening.
– Fresh Codemonger
Mar 28 at 22:42
@FreshCodemonger - that is always a good idea. The issue with the new blown in insulation is keeping it from dropping all over when going into attic.
– DMoore
Mar 28 at 22:51
@FreshCodemonger - that is always a good idea. The issue with the new blown in insulation is keeping it from dropping all over when going into attic.
– DMoore
Mar 28 at 22:51
@Stephen - I totally used this picture on purpose hoping someone would comment. I am in midwest and 1" is a most as we can get at store (application exactly the same for the answer - just more cutting/glueing) and I am in midwest where we are below 30 for 2-3 months.
– DMoore
Mar 29 at 16:45
@Stephen - I totally used this picture on purpose hoping someone would comment. I am in midwest and 1" is a most as we can get at store (application exactly the same for the answer - just more cutting/glueing) and I am in midwest where we are below 30 for 2-3 months.
– DMoore
Mar 29 at 16:45
add a comment |
Before you add insulation, consider air sealing your attic, meaning use a closed cell foam to seal penetrations in ceiling such as top plates, holes for electrical, lighting and plumbing. This will prevent air communication between the attic and the conditioned space something that just adding blown in insulation cannot do. If you are experiencing comfort issues in your home, are looking for energy saving or health benefits reach out to home performance professionals and have a blower door test preformed to determine the amount of air leakage your home has and get the best solution. If you're interested in this take a look at Corbett Lunsford and his youtube channel Home Performance.
But to answer your question build a wall around your attic access to prevent the blown in insulation from falling through, put a seal on the attic access frame (kinda like a door seal) and adhere bats of insulation to the door itself.
Here is a link for some air sealing tips. https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/56102/The-3-Rules-of-Air-Sealing
And here is one for why it's important http://energysmartohio.com/how_it_works/air-sealing/
New contributor
add a comment |
Before you add insulation, consider air sealing your attic, meaning use a closed cell foam to seal penetrations in ceiling such as top plates, holes for electrical, lighting and plumbing. This will prevent air communication between the attic and the conditioned space something that just adding blown in insulation cannot do. If you are experiencing comfort issues in your home, are looking for energy saving or health benefits reach out to home performance professionals and have a blower door test preformed to determine the amount of air leakage your home has and get the best solution. If you're interested in this take a look at Corbett Lunsford and his youtube channel Home Performance.
But to answer your question build a wall around your attic access to prevent the blown in insulation from falling through, put a seal on the attic access frame (kinda like a door seal) and adhere bats of insulation to the door itself.
Here is a link for some air sealing tips. https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/56102/The-3-Rules-of-Air-Sealing
And here is one for why it's important http://energysmartohio.com/how_it_works/air-sealing/
New contributor
add a comment |
Before you add insulation, consider air sealing your attic, meaning use a closed cell foam to seal penetrations in ceiling such as top plates, holes for electrical, lighting and plumbing. This will prevent air communication between the attic and the conditioned space something that just adding blown in insulation cannot do. If you are experiencing comfort issues in your home, are looking for energy saving or health benefits reach out to home performance professionals and have a blower door test preformed to determine the amount of air leakage your home has and get the best solution. If you're interested in this take a look at Corbett Lunsford and his youtube channel Home Performance.
But to answer your question build a wall around your attic access to prevent the blown in insulation from falling through, put a seal on the attic access frame (kinda like a door seal) and adhere bats of insulation to the door itself.
Here is a link for some air sealing tips. https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/56102/The-3-Rules-of-Air-Sealing
And here is one for why it's important http://energysmartohio.com/how_it_works/air-sealing/
New contributor
Before you add insulation, consider air sealing your attic, meaning use a closed cell foam to seal penetrations in ceiling such as top plates, holes for electrical, lighting and plumbing. This will prevent air communication between the attic and the conditioned space something that just adding blown in insulation cannot do. If you are experiencing comfort issues in your home, are looking for energy saving or health benefits reach out to home performance professionals and have a blower door test preformed to determine the amount of air leakage your home has and get the best solution. If you're interested in this take a look at Corbett Lunsford and his youtube channel Home Performance.
But to answer your question build a wall around your attic access to prevent the blown in insulation from falling through, put a seal on the attic access frame (kinda like a door seal) and adhere bats of insulation to the door itself.
Here is a link for some air sealing tips. https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/56102/The-3-Rules-of-Air-Sealing
And here is one for why it's important http://energysmartohio.com/how_it_works/air-sealing/
New contributor
edited Mar 29 at 3:36
New contributor
answered Mar 29 at 3:28
Max JohnsonMax Johnson
213
213
New contributor
New contributor
add a comment |
add a comment |
Yes, the energy loss from an uninsulated attic door is substantial. You can and should attach batts or rigid foam directly to the top of the door.
This article explains the energy impact of having an uninsulated attic door with an otherwise insulated attic:
https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/34932/Attic-Stairs-A-Mind-Blowing-Hole-in-Your-Building-Envelope
In example given in the article, "the amount of heat that flows through the 10 sf of attic stairs is the same as what flows through 380 sf of the insulated attic".
New contributor
add a comment |
Yes, the energy loss from an uninsulated attic door is substantial. You can and should attach batts or rigid foam directly to the top of the door.
This article explains the energy impact of having an uninsulated attic door with an otherwise insulated attic:
https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/34932/Attic-Stairs-A-Mind-Blowing-Hole-in-Your-Building-Envelope
In example given in the article, "the amount of heat that flows through the 10 sf of attic stairs is the same as what flows through 380 sf of the insulated attic".
New contributor
add a comment |
Yes, the energy loss from an uninsulated attic door is substantial. You can and should attach batts or rigid foam directly to the top of the door.
This article explains the energy impact of having an uninsulated attic door with an otherwise insulated attic:
https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/34932/Attic-Stairs-A-Mind-Blowing-Hole-in-Your-Building-Envelope
In example given in the article, "the amount of heat that flows through the 10 sf of attic stairs is the same as what flows through 380 sf of the insulated attic".
New contributor
Yes, the energy loss from an uninsulated attic door is substantial. You can and should attach batts or rigid foam directly to the top of the door.
This article explains the energy impact of having an uninsulated attic door with an otherwise insulated attic:
https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/34932/Attic-Stairs-A-Mind-Blowing-Hole-in-Your-Building-Envelope
In example given in the article, "the amount of heat that flows through the 10 sf of attic stairs is the same as what flows through 380 sf of the insulated attic".
New contributor
New contributor
answered Mar 29 at 15:46
Steven T. SnyderSteven T. Snyder
1113
1113
New contributor
New contributor
add a comment |
add a comment |
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1
They make insulated covers for folding attic stair cases. You could use that basic design to make your own insulated "cap".
– JPhi1618
Mar 28 at 20:12
2
Consider using a different type of insulation on top of the door (i.e. fiberglass bats) in addition to your blown insulation elsewhere.
– Nate Strickland
Mar 28 at 20:14