Two black wires into same terminal on light switch












3















I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered.



My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed?



To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C?



Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago). Is this a standard way to wire a house?



Thanks all!



Current gang box










share|improve this question









New contributor




user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





















  • For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.

    – user98434
    2 days ago
















3















I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered.



My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed?



To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C?



Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago). Is this a standard way to wire a house?



Thanks all!



Current gang box










share|improve this question









New contributor




user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





















  • For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.

    – user98434
    2 days ago














3












3








3








I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered.



My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed?



To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C?



Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago). Is this a standard way to wire a house?



Thanks all!



Current gang box










share|improve this question









New contributor




user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered.



My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed?



To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C?



Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago). Is this a standard way to wire a house?



Thanks all!



Current gang box







electrical wiring smart-switch






share|improve this question









New contributor




user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









New contributor




user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited yesterday









manassehkatz

9,7621337




9,7621337






New contributor




user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked 2 days ago









user98434user98434

162




162




New contributor




user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






user98434 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.













  • For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.

    – user98434
    2 days ago



















  • For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.

    – user98434
    2 days ago

















For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.

– user98434
2 days ago





For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.

– user98434
2 days ago










3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes


















3














A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.



It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.



From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.



To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.



Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.






share|improve this answer































    1














    It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.



    If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.






    share|improve this answer



















    • 1





      Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.

      – user98434
      2 days ago



















    0














    Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.



    As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.



    As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.






    share|improve this answer








    New contributor




    Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.





















    • I never cut the wires, there is a release mechanism next to the hole that if a small screwdriver or piece of #14 wire is used the wire will release and not be shortened.

      – Ed Beal
      yesterday











    Your Answer








    StackExchange.ready(function() {
    var channelOptions = {
    tags: "".split(" "),
    id: "73"
    };
    initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);

    StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function() {
    // Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
    if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled) {
    StackExchange.using("snippets", function() {
    createEditor();
    });
    }
    else {
    createEditor();
    }
    });

    function createEditor() {
    StackExchange.prepareEditor({
    heartbeatType: 'answer',
    autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
    convertImagesToLinks: false,
    noModals: true,
    showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
    reputationToPostImages: null,
    bindNavPrevention: true,
    postfix: "",
    imageUploader: {
    brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
    contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
    allowUrls: true
    },
    noCode: true, onDemand: true,
    discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
    ,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
    });


    }
    });






    user98434 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.










    draft saved

    draft discarded


















    StackExchange.ready(
    function () {
    StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f160063%2ftwo-black-wires-into-same-terminal-on-light-switch%23new-answer', 'question_page');
    }
    );

    Post as a guest















    Required, but never shown

























    3 Answers
    3






    active

    oldest

    votes








    3 Answers
    3






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    3














    A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.



    It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.



    From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.



    To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.



    Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.






    share|improve this answer




























      3














      A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.



      It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.



      From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.



      To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.



      Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.






      share|improve this answer


























        3












        3








        3







        A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.



        It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.



        From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.



        To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.



        Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.






        share|improve this answer













        A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.



        It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.



        From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.



        To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.



        Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered 2 days ago









        HarperHarper

        74k448149




        74k448149

























            1














            It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.



            If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.






            share|improve this answer



















            • 1





              Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.

              – user98434
              2 days ago
















            1














            It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.



            If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.






            share|improve this answer



















            • 1





              Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.

              – user98434
              2 days ago














            1












            1








            1







            It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.



            If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.






            share|improve this answer













            It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.



            If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.







            share|improve this answer












            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer










            answered 2 days ago









            bibbib

            31.2k95392




            31.2k95392








            • 1





              Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.

              – user98434
              2 days ago














            • 1





              Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.

              – user98434
              2 days ago








            1




            1





            Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.

            – user98434
            2 days ago





            Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.

            – user98434
            2 days ago











            0














            Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.



            As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.



            As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.






            share|improve this answer








            New contributor




            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.





















            • I never cut the wires, there is a release mechanism next to the hole that if a small screwdriver or piece of #14 wire is used the wire will release and not be shortened.

              – Ed Beal
              yesterday
















            0














            Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.



            As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.



            As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.






            share|improve this answer








            New contributor




            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.





















            • I never cut the wires, there is a release mechanism next to the hole that if a small screwdriver or piece of #14 wire is used the wire will release and not be shortened.

              – Ed Beal
              yesterday














            0












            0








            0







            Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.



            As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.



            As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.






            share|improve this answer








            New contributor




            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.










            Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.



            As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.



            As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.







            share|improve this answer








            New contributor




            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.









            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer






            New contributor




            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.









            answered 2 days ago









            Michael WondrashMichael Wondrash

            1




            1




            New contributor




            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.





            New contributor





            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.






            Michael Wondrash is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.













            • I never cut the wires, there is a release mechanism next to the hole that if a small screwdriver or piece of #14 wire is used the wire will release and not be shortened.

              – Ed Beal
              yesterday



















            • I never cut the wires, there is a release mechanism next to the hole that if a small screwdriver or piece of #14 wire is used the wire will release and not be shortened.

              – Ed Beal
              yesterday

















            I never cut the wires, there is a release mechanism next to the hole that if a small screwdriver or piece of #14 wire is used the wire will release and not be shortened.

            – Ed Beal
            yesterday





            I never cut the wires, there is a release mechanism next to the hole that if a small screwdriver or piece of #14 wire is used the wire will release and not be shortened.

            – Ed Beal
            yesterday










            user98434 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.










            draft saved

            draft discarded


















            user98434 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.













            user98434 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.












            user98434 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
















            Thanks for contributing an answer to Home Improvement Stack Exchange!


            • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

            But avoid



            • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

            • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.


            To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.




            draft saved


            draft discarded














            StackExchange.ready(
            function () {
            StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f160063%2ftwo-black-wires-into-same-terminal-on-light-switch%23new-answer', 'question_page');
            }
            );

            Post as a guest















            Required, but never shown





















































            Required, but never shown














            Required, but never shown












            Required, but never shown







            Required, but never shown

































            Required, but never shown














            Required, but never shown












            Required, but never shown







            Required, but never shown







            Popular posts from this blog

            Plaza Victoria

            Puebla de Zaragoza

            Musa